Azaleaic acid

Azelaic acid

From its humble origins to its current prominence in dermatology, topical azelaic acid has come a long way. Its efficacy in treating acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation, coupled with its favorable safety profile, underscores its importance in skincare.

History

Azelaic acid was first identified as a component of wheat and rye by German scientist Heinrich Schotten in the late 19th century. Its properties were initially explored in the context of organic chemistry.

Early Research

Azelaic acid gained recognition as a treatment for acne vulgaris, with research demonstrating its effectiveness in reducing comedones, inflammatory lesions, and overall acne severity. The FDA approved azelaic acid as a topical treatment for acne, making it one of the first-line options for mild to moderate acne management.

Current status

• Wide Availability: Today, azelaic acid-based products are widely available over the counter and through prescription, offering patients options for managing various skin concerns.
• Expanded Applications: Research continues to explore the potential applications of azelaic acid, including its role in addressing melasma, post-inflammatory erythema, and even hair loss disorders.
• Safety and Tolerability: Azelaic acid is generally well-tolerated, with minimal side effects reported. Its safety profile makes it suitable for long-term use in skincare regimens.

Molecular Structure

Azelaic acid is composed of nine carbon atoms arranged in a linear chain, with two carboxyl groups at each end. This dicarboxylic acid structure is pivotal to its biological activity and interaction with skin receptors.

Inhibition of Inflammatory Mediators

Azelaic acid exerts anti-inflammatory effects by inhibiting the production of inflammatory mediators such as interleukin-1α (IL-1α) and tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α). By modulating these cytokines, azelaic acid helps alleviate inflammation associated with conditions like acne and rosacea.

Antimicrobial Activity

Azelaic acid demonstrates antimicrobial activity against Cutibacterium acnes, the bacterium implicated in acne pathogenesis. By inhibiting bacterial growth, azelaic acid helps reduce acne lesions and prevents the formation of new breakouts.

Tyrosinase Inhibition

Azelaic acid inhibits the activity of tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin synthesis. By interfering with melanin production, azelaic acid helps lighten hyperpigmentation and even out skin tone.

Normalization of Keratinization

Regulation of Keratinocyte Proliferation: Azelaic acid modulates keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation, promoting normal keratinization processes. This normalization of keratinization helps prevent the formation of comedones and promotes smoother, clearer skin in individuals with acne-prone or congested skin.

Antioxidant Activity

Azelaic acid possesses antioxidant properties, scavenging free radicals and protecting skin cells from oxidative stress by neutralizing reactive oxygen species (ROS).

Moisturizing Benefits

Azelaic acid enhances skin hydration and supports barrier function by increasing the synthesis of natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) such as hyaluronic acid and ceramides.

Effects

Reduction of Acne

Azelaic acid effectively reduces acne lesions by exerting antimicrobial activity against the bacterium Cutibacterium acnes. It also has anti-inflammatory properties that help alleviate redness and swelling associated with acne breakouts.

Lightening of Hyperpigmentation

Azelaic acid inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase, which is involved in melanin production. By reducing melanin synthesis, azelaic acid helps fade dark spots, melasma, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, resulting in a more even skin tone.

Improvement of Rosacea Symptoms

Azelaic acid has been shown to reduce redness and inflammation associated with rosacea. It calms vascular reactivity and decreases blood vessel dilation, leading to a reduction in erythema and promoting a more uniform complexion.

Normalization of Skin Texture

Azelaic acid regulates keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation, promoting normal skin cell turnover. This helps prevent the formation of comedones and supports smoother, clearer skin texture, particularly for individuals with acne-prone or congested skin.

Antioxidant Protection

Azelaic acid possesses antioxidant properties that help protect skin cells from oxidative stress caused by environmental factors like UV radiation and pollution. By neutralizing free radicals, azelaic acid helps prevent premature aging and maintains overall skin health.

Hydration and Barrier Repair

Azelaic acid enhances skin hydration by increasing the synthesis of natural moisturizing factors like hyaluronic acid and ceramides. It strengthens the skin's lipid barrier, reducing moisture loss and improving skin resilience and texture.

Side Effects

Skin Irritation

One of the most common side effects of azelaic acid is skin irritation, which may manifest as redness, itching, burning, or stinging sensation upon application. This irritation is usually mild and transient, resolving as the skin adjusts to the treatment.

Dryness and Peeling

Azelaic acid may cause dryness and peeling, especially during the initial stages of treatment. This occurs as the outermost layer of the skin sheds, revealing fresher, healthier skin underneath. Adequate moisturization can help alleviate dryness and minimize peeling.

Tingling or Sensation of Heat

Some individuals may experience a tingling or sensation of heat upon application of azelaic acid. This sensation is typically mild and temporary and may subside as the skin becomes accustomed to the product.

Allergic Reactions

While rare, allergic reactions to azelaic acid can occur in sensitive individuals. Symptoms of an allergic reaction may include rash, hives, swelling, or difficulty breathing. If any signs of an allergic reaction develop, discontinuing use and seeking medical attention is advised.

Photosensitivity

Azelaic acid has the potential to increase skin sensitivity to sunlight, leading to a higher risk of sunburn and sun damage. It is essential to use sunscreen with a high SPF during the day and limit sun exposure while using azelaic acid to minimize the risk of sunburn and hyperpigmentation.

Discoloration of Fabrics

Azelaic acid may bleach or discolor fabrics, including clothing, towels, and bedding, upon contact. To prevent staining, it's advisable to allow the product to dry completely before coming into contact with fabrics.

Eye Irritation

Avoiding contact with the eyes is crucial when using azelaic acid, as it may cause irritation if it comes into contact with the eyes. If accidental eye exposure occurs, rinse thoroughly with water and seek medical advice if irritation persists.

Synergy

Ingredient	Synergy with Azelaic Acid	Benefits
Salicylic Acid	- Combats acne and exfoliates dead skin cells	Azelaic acid and salicylic acid work synergistically to unclog pores, reduce inflammation, and exfoliate the skin, resulting in clearer, smoother skin.
Niacinamide	- Reduces inflammation and improves skin barrier function	Azelaic acid and niacinamide complement each other in reducing redness and irritation while strengthening the skin's natural barrier for overall skin health.
Retinoids	- Promotes cell turnover and collagen production	Azelaic acid and retinoids enhance each other's effects in promoting skin renewal, reducing hyperpigmentation, and improving the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Vitamin C	- Provides antioxidant protection and brightens the complexion	Azelaic acid and vitamin C work together to neutralize free radicals, reduce oxidative stress, and fade dark spots, resulting in a more radiant, even skin tone.
Hyaluronic Acid	- Hydrates and plumps the skin	Azelaic acid and hyaluronic acid combine forces to hydrate the skin, improve moisture retention, and maintain skin suppleness and elasticity.
Ceramides	- Strengthens the skin barrier and retains moisture	Azelaic acid and ceramides collaborate to reinforce the skin's protective barrier, preventing moisture loss and enhancing skin hydration and resilience.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids	- Exfoliates dead skin cells and enhances product penetration	Azelaic acid and alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) work synergistically to exfoliate the skin, improve product absorption, and promote a smoother, more radiant complexion.
Benzoyl Peroxide	- Controls acne-causing bacteria and reduces inflammation	Azelaic acid and benzoyl peroxide complement each other in targeting different stages of acne development, resulting in more effective acne control and prevention.

Optimal pH Levels

The optimal pH level for azelaic acid in skincare products typically ranges between 3.5 and 4. Azelaic acid is most stable and effective within this pH range. At lower pH levels, closer to the skin's natural acidity, azelaic acid exhibits enhanced penetration and efficacy in addressing various skin concerns.

Avoid With

1. Strong Acids: Avoid combining azelaic acid with other strong acids such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, or salicylic acid, as this may lead to excessive irritation and sensitivity.
2. Benzoyl Peroxide: While benzoyl peroxide is effective for treating acne, it's best to avoid using it simultaneously with azelaic acid as they may counteract each other's efficacy and cause irritation when used together.
3. Vitamin C: Although azelaic acid and vitamin C can complement each other's effects, combining them may lead to potential instability and reduced efficacy of both ingredients. It's advisable to use them at different times of the day or on alternate days.
4. Retinoids: Azelaic acid may interact with retinoids such as tretinoin, adapalene, or retinol, leading to increased irritation and sensitivity. It's recommended to use them separately or under the guidance of a dermatologist.
5. Harsh Exfoliants: Avoid using abrasive or harsh exfoliants like physical scrubs or strong chemical exfoliants in conjunction with azelaic acid, as this may exacerbate irritation and compromise the skin's barrier function.
6. Highly Alkaline Products: Avoid using highly alkaline products or cleansers with azelaic acid, as they can disrupt the skin's natural pH balance and compromise the efficacy of the active ingredient.
7. Sulfur-based Products: While sulfur can be beneficial for treating acne, combining it with azelaic acid may lead to excessive drying or irritation. It's best to use them separately or as directed by a healthcare professional.

Tips

Start Slowly

If you're new to azelaic acid, start by using it every other day or a few times a week to allow your skin to adjust. Once your skin becomes accustomed to the ingredient, you can gradually increase the frequency of use.

Apply to Clean, Dry Skin

Before applying azelaic acid, cleanse your face thoroughly and ensure your skin is completely dry. This helps maximize the absorption of the active ingredient.

Use a Pea-sized Amount

A little goes a long way with azelaic acid. Apply a pea-sized amount to your fingertips and gently massage it onto your skin in a thin, even layer.

Avoid Contact with Eyes and Mucous Membranes

Be careful to avoid getting azelaic acid near your eyes, nostrils, mouth, or any other sensitive areas. If accidental contact occurs, rinse thoroughly with water.

Wait Before Layering Products

Allow azelaic acid to fully absorb into your skin before applying other skincare products. This helps prevent potential interactions and ensures maximum efficacy.

Use Sunscreen

Azelaic acid may increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun, so it's essential to apply sunscreen with a high SPF during the day. This helps protect your skin from sunburn and minimizes the risk of hyperpigmentation.

Related:Revealing The Power of Sunscreen

For Each Skin Type

Normal Skin

Azelaic acid can help normalize skin texture, reduce hyperpigmentation, and prevent breakouts without causing excessive dryness or irritation.

Dry Skin

While azelaic acid may initially cause dryness or flakiness, it can still benefit dry skin types by reducing inflammation, improving skin tone, and promoting a smoother complexion. It's essential to follow up with a hydrating moisturizer.

Oily Skin

Azelaic acid is particularly beneficial for oily skin types as it helps regulate sebum production, unclog pores, and reduce acne lesions. Its anti-inflammatory properties also help calm redness and irritation associated with acne and oily skin.

Combination Skin

Azelaic acid can effectively address both oily and dry areas on combination skin. It helps control oiliness in the T-zone while simultaneously hydrating and smoothing dry patches on the cheeks or other areas of the face.

Sensitive Skin

Azelaic acid is generally well-tolerated by sensitive skin types, as it has anti-inflammatory properties that can help soothe redness and irritation. However, it's essential to start with a lower concentration and patch-test before incorporating it into your routine to minimize the risk of adverse reactions.

Acne-Prone Skin

Azelaic acid is highly effective for acne-prone skin due to its ability to reduce inflammation, inhibit acne-causing bacteria, and prevent the formation of comedones. It can help clear existing breakouts and prevent new ones from occurring without causing excessive dryness or irritation.

Mature Skin

Azelaic acid can benefit mature skin by promoting cell turnover, reducing hyperpigmentation, and improving overall skin texture and tone. Its antioxidant properties also help protect against environmental damage and premature aging, resulting in a more youthful and radiant complexion.

Hyperpigmented Skin

Azelaic acid is particularly effective for addressing hyperpigmentation, including melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and sunspots. It inhibits melanin production, fades dark spots, and evens out skin tone, resulting in a brighter and more even complexion.

Alternatives

Ingredient	Benefits	Suitable for Skin Types
Salicylic Acid	- Exfoliates dead skin cells and unclogs pores <br> - Reduces inflammation and treats acne	Oily, acne-prone, combination
Glycolic Acid	- Exfoliates and improves skin texture <br> - Stimulates collagen production and reduces hyperpigmentation	Normal, oily, mature
Lactic Acid	- Gently exfoliates and hydrates the skin <br> - Improves skin tone and texture	Dry, sensitive, mature
Retinoids	- Stimulate cell turnover and collagen production <br> - Treat fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation	Mature, acne-prone, sun-damaged
Vitamin C	- Provides antioxidant protection <br> - Brightens skin tone and fades dark spots	All skin types
Niacinamide	- Improves skin barrier function <br> - Reduces inflammation and hyperpigmentation	All skin types
Kojic Acid	- Inhibits tyrosinase and lightens hyperpigmentation <br> - Anti-inflammatory properties	Hyperpigmented, sensitive
Tranexamic Acid	- Reduces melanin production and treats hyperpigmentation <br> - Anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties	Hyperpigmented, sensitive
Mandelic Acid	- Exfoliates dead skin cells and treats acne <br> - Less irritating than other AHAs	Acne-prone, sensitive, aging

What It Does in Products

Creams

Azelaic acid creams are commonly used to treat acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation. When applied topically, the cream penetrates the skin, targeting acne-causing bacteria, reducing inflammation, and inhibiting melanin production to fade dark spots and even out skin tone.

Gels

Azelaic acid gels have a lighter texture and are suitable for oily or acne-prone skin. They work similarly to creams but may dry down more quickly, making them ideal for daytime use under makeup or sunscreen.

Serums

Azelaic acid serums are lightweight formulations that deliver a high concentration of the active ingredient to the skin. Serums are often preferred for their ability to penetrate deeply and target specific skin concerns such as acne, hyperpigmentation, or redness.

Spot Treatments

Azelaic acid spot treatments are designed to be applied directly to individual blemishes or areas of hyperpigmentation. These targeted treatments deliver a concentrated dose of azelaic acid to the affected area.

Toners

Azelaic acid toners are formulated to balance the skin's pH and exfoliate dead skin cells, promoting a clearer complexion. These toners may also contain other active ingredients such as salicylic acid or niacinamide to enhance their efficacy.

Related:Do You Need A Toner?

Moisturizers

Azelaic acid moisturizers combine the benefits of hydration with the active treatment of skin concerns such as acne or hyperpigmentation. These moisturizers are suitable for daily use and help maintain skin health while addressing specific skincare issues.

Related:Choosing Moisturizers For Your Glowing Skin

Cleansers

Azelaic acid cleansers offer a gentle way to incorporate the active ingredient into your daily skincare routine. While they may not provide as intensive treatment as leave-on products, azelaic acid cleansers can help prevent breakouts and improve overall skin texture.

Incorporating to Your Routine

Morning Routine

1. Cleanse: Start your morning by cleansing your face with a gentle cleanser suitable for your skin type. This removes any impurities and prepares your skin for the next steps.
2. Tone: Apply a hydrating toner to balance your skin's pH levels and provide lightweight hydration. Allow the toner to absorb fully before proceeding to the next step.
3. Azelaic Acid Treatment: Apply a pea-sized amount of azelaic acid product to your entire face or targeted areas, depending on your skin concerns. Gently massage the product into your skin until fully absorbed.
4. Moisturize: Follow up with a lightweight moisturizer to lock in moisture and keep your skin hydrated throughout the day. Choose a moisturizer suitable for your skin type, whether it's dry, oily, or combination.
5. Sunscreen: Finish off your morning routine with a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher. Azelaic acid may increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun, so sunscreen is essential to protect your skin from UV damage and prevent further hyperpigmentation.

Night Routine

1. Double Cleanse: Start your nighttime routine by double cleansing to remove makeup, sunscreen, and any buildup from the day. Use an oil-based cleanser followed by a water-based cleanser to ensure thorough cleansing.
2. Exfoliation (Optional): If you incorporate chemical exfoliants like AHAs or BHAs into your skincare routine, apply them after cleansing and before azelaic acid. However, be cautious not to over-exfoliate, especially when using azelaic acid, which can also exfoliate the skin.
3. Azelaic Acid Treatment: Apply azelaic acid as you did in the morning routine, after cleansing and any exfoliation step. Allow the product to absorb fully before proceeding to the next step.
4. Serums or Treatments: If you use any other serums or treatments targeting specific skin concerns such as fine lines, wrinkles, or hyperpigmentation, apply them after azelaic acid and allow each product to absorb before layering the next.
5. Moisturize: Finish your nighttime routine with a richer moisturizer or night cream to replenish moisture and support skin repair and regeneration overnight.
6. Eye Cream (Optional): If you use an eye cream, gently pat it around the delicate eye area to hydrate and address specific concerns like dark circles or puffiness.

Related:Try These 5 Night Routine Tips For Your Glowing Skin.

Vegan Status

Azelaic acid is a synthetic compound that is not derived from animal sources, making it suitable for vegans. It is typically produced through chemical synthesis in laboratories rather than being extracted from animal-derived ingredients.

Misconceptions

Claim: Only for Acne Treatment

Fact: While azelaic acid is effective for treating acne due to its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, it offers a range of other benefits for the skin. It can also address concerns such as rosacea, hyperpigmentation, and uneven skin tone, making it a versatile ingredient in skincare formulations.

Claim: Causes Excessive Dryness

Fact: While azelaic acid may initially cause dryness or flakiness, especially when first starting treatment, it typically does not cause excessive dryness when used as directed. However, it's essential to follow up with a hydrating moisturizer to maintain skin hydration and minimize any potential dryness or irritation.

Claim: Not Suitable for Sensitive Skin

Fact: While some individuals with sensitive skin may experience mild irritation when first using azelaic acid, it is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin.

Claim: Only for Acne-Prone or Oily Skin

Fact: While azelaic acid is beneficial for acne-prone and oily skin types due to its ability to regulate sebum production and unclog pores, it can also benefit other skin types. It helps improve skin texture, reduce hyperpigmentation, and promote a more even complexion.

Claim: Not Effective for Hyperpigmentation

Fact: Azelaic acid is highly effective for treating hyperpigmentation, including melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and sunspots. It inhibits melanin production, fades dark spots, and evens out skin tone, resulting in a brighter and more even complexion with regular use.