Learn More About AHAs, and BHAs.

What are AHAs and BHAs?

AHAs(Alpha Hydroxy Acids) are water-soluble acids such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid. BHAs(Beta Hydroxy Acids) are oil-soluble acids, with salicylic acid being the most well-known and widely used BHA in skincare, derived from willow bark, wintergreen leaves, or sweet birch bark.

What Do They Do?

Both AHAs and BHAs are effective chemical exfoliants that can significantly improve skin texture, clarity, and overall health when used appropriately. AHAs are more suitable due to their moisturizing benefits, and BHAs are preferred because of their ability to penetrate deeper into oily pores.

Benefits of AHAs

1. Exfoliation: AHAs help to dissolve the bonds between dead skin cells on the surface, promoting exfoliation to reveal newer, brighter skin underneath.
2. Moisture Retention: They improve the skin's moisture content by enhancing natural moisturizing factors within the skin, making them particularly beneficial for dry skin types.
3. Collagen Production: With regular use, AHAs can stimulate collagen production, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and improving skin firmness.
4. Skin Brightening: By removing dead skin cells, AHAs can help to fade dark spots and even out skin tone, making them effective for treating hyperpigmentation.

Benefits of BHAs

1. Deep Pore Cleansing: BHAs penetrate deeper into the pores to remove dead skin cells and excess sebum, making them particularly effective for oily and acne-prone skin.
2. Anti-inflammatory and Antimicrobial: Salicylic Acid has anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, reducing inflammation and preventing acne breakouts.
3. Smoothing Skin Texture: Regular use of BHAs can smooth the skin's surface, reducing the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.
4. Blackhead and Whitehead Reduction: By clearing out pore blockages, BHAs effectively reduce and prevent the formation of blackheads and whiteheads.

History of BHAs

1. Medicinal Roots: The medicinal properties of Salicylic Acid, the most common BHA, were first utilized in the form of willow bark extracts. Its use for pain relief and fever reduction dates back to ancient civilizations, including the Sumerians and Egyptians.
2. Scientific Development: The isolation of Salicylic Acid from willow bark was achieved in the 19th century, with its synthesis marking a significant milestone in pharmaceutical development. It was initially used for its analgesic and anti-inflammatory properties.
3. Skincare Incorporation: BHAs found their way into skincare due to their ability to penetrate oils in the skin, making them particularly effective for oily and acne-prone skin types. The use of salicylic acid in acne treatment products became widespread in the latter half of the 20th century, appreciated for its ability to clear pores and reduce breakouts.

History of AHAs

1. Ancient Practices: The use of AHAs can be traced back to ancient civilizations. The Egyptians bathed in sour milk (Lactic acid) for softer skin, while the Romans used tartaric acid from grape fermentation for similar purposes. Cleopatra is famously noted for her milk baths to maintain her youthful appearance.
2. Scientific Recognition: The modern scientific exploration of AHAs began in the early 20th century, but it wasn't until the 1970s that their potential in dermatology and skincare was widely recognized. Dr. Eugene Van Scott and Dr. Ruey Yu are credited with pioneering the use of AHAs in treating skin conditions, leading to the development of treatments for keratosis pilaris, ichthyosis, and hyperkeratosis.
3. Cosmetic Adoption: In the 1990s, AHAs transitioned from medical treatments to cosmetic applications. They became popular ingredients in over-the-counter skincare products for exfoliation, improved skin texture, and anti-aging benefits.

Are They Safe?

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has set guidelines for the concentration of AHAs and BHAs in cosmetic products, ensuring their safe use. Today, these ingredients are regulated and considered safe for over-the-counter skincare products within certain concentration limits.

AHAs For Each Skin Type

1. Oily Skin Glycolic acid, with its small molecule size, is effective for oily skin types. It can help reduce excess oil, prevent clogged pores, and diminish the appearance of acne scars.
2. Acne-Prone Skin While BHAs are typically recommended for acne-prone skin due to their ability to penetrate oily pores, AHAs can still offer benefits by exfoliating the skin's surface and reducing the appearance of post-acne marks and scars.
3. Combination Skin AHAs can be applied strategically to areas with dryness or uneven texture, helping to balance the skin by removing dead skin cells and promoting even hydration.
4. Normal Skin For those with normal skin, AHAs provide a gentle exfoliating action that helps maintain a radiant complexion and can prevent the early signs of aging.
5. Dry Skin AHAs like Lactic acid are particularly beneficial for dry skin due to their ability to attract moisture to the skin, in addition to exfoliating. Lactic acid, being milder, helps improve skin texture without causing significant irritation.
6. Sensitive Skin Individuals with sensitive skin should proceed with caution. Mandelic acid, a larger molecule AHA, is gentler and less likely to cause irritation compared to other AHAs, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.
7. Mature Skin AHAs, particularly Glycolic acid, are effective for mature skin as they help stimulate Collagen production, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. They also improve skin firmness and texture.

General Guidelines for Using AHAs

1. Sun Sensitivity: AHAs increase the skin’s sensitivity to UV radiation, making Sunscreen an essential part of the skincare routine when using AHAs.
2. Hydration: Incorporating hydrating ingredients into your skincare routine can help counteract any potential dryness resulting from AHA use.
3. Frequency and Concentration: Start with lower concentrations and gradually increase as your skin builds tolerance. The frequency of use should be adjusted based on your skin’s response to avoid over-exfoliation.

BHAs For Each Skin Type

1. Oily Skin BHAs are ideal for oily skin due to their oil-soluble nature, allowing them to penetrate deeply into the pores to remove excess sebum, reduce oiliness, and clear congestion.
2. Acne-Prone Skin The antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties of BHAs make them highly effective in treating acne-prone skin. They help prevent acne formations by exfoliating dead skin cells that clog pores and reducing inflammation associated with breakouts.
3. Combination Skin For combination skin, BHAs can be applied strategically to oily and acne-prone areas, balancing the skin by clearing pores and minimizing oiliness in the T-zone without overdrying the cheeks.
4. Normal Skin Individuals with normal skin can benefit from the occasional use of BHAs to maintain clear pores and a smooth skin texture, as well as to prevent potential breakouts.
5. Dry Skin While not typically recommended for dry skin due to their potential to further dry out the skin, BHAs can still be used in low concentrations with hydrating ingredients to gently exfoliate and improve skin texture.
6. Sensitive Skin Caution is advised when using BHAs on sensitive skin as they can cause irritation. However, newer formulations containing low concentrations of BHAs combined with soothing ingredients may be tolerable and beneficial for gently exfoliating and calming the skin.
7. Mature Skin BHAs can support mature skin by improving texture, reducing the appearance of fine lines through exfoliation, and enhancing skin renewal.

General Guidelines for Using BHAs

• Sun Sensitivity: BHAs can increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun. Daily sunscreen application is essential to protect the skin from UV damage.
• Hydration: Incorporating hydrating ingredients such as Hyaluronic acid into your routine can help mitigate any potential dryness or irritation caused by BHA use, especially for dry and sensitive skin types.
• Product Selection: Choosing the right concentration and formulation is key. Lower concentrations are suitable for daily use, while higher concentrations should be used less frequently or as spot treatments.

Topical Ingredients Good with AHAs

1. Hyaluronic Acid Hyaluronic acid provides deep hydration to the skin, which is particularly beneficial when using AHAs, as they can have a drying effect. This combination helps to maintain skin's moisture balance while exfoliating.
2. Ceramides Ceramides help to restore the skin's natural barrier, reducing potential irritation from AHAs. They ensure the skin remains hydrated and protected, counteracting the stripping effect AHAs might have.
3. Antioxidants (Vitamins C and E) When used correctly, antioxidants like Vitamin C can work synergistically with AHAs to protect against free radical damage and support collagen production, enhancing skin brightness and reducing signs of aging. Vitamin E helps to soothe and repair the skin.
4. Peptides Peptides, which signal the skin to produce more collagen, can complement the exfoliating action of AHAs by working on skin's firmness and elasticity from within.
5. Niacinamide Niacinamide can help mitigate irritation potentially caused by AHAs and support the skin barrier function, besides its benefits in evening out skin tone and reducing inflammation.
6. SPF HAs can increase skin's sensitivity to the sun, making Sunscreen an essential part of your morning routine. Using a broad-spectrum SPF protects newly exposed skin from UV damage.

Topical Ingredients Good with BHAs

1. Hyaluronic Acid Hyaluronic acid provides deep hydration without adding oiliness, balancing the potential drying effects of BHAs. This combination is great for maintaining skin moisture while treating acne or oiliness.
2. Niacinamide Niacinamide works to strengthen the skin barrier, reduce inflammation, and regulate sebum production. When used with BHAs, it can help mitigate irritation and redness while improving skin texture and appearance.
3. Ceramides Ceramides support the skin’s natural barrier and help retain moisture. Combined with BHAs, ceramides can help prevent the skin from becoming too dry or irritated from exfoliation.
4. Antioxidants While direct combination with Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) requires careful formulation due to differing pH levels, using BHAs in a routine with antioxidants can protect the skin from free radical damage and promote healing. Vitamin E can soothe and hydrate the skin, complementing the effects of BHAs.
5. Peptides Peptides, which signal the skin to produce Collagen and elastin, can be used alongside BHAs to enhance skin firmness and elasticity while the BHA focuses on clearing pores and reducing inflammation.
6. SPF Not a direct skincare active but an essential component of any routine, especially when using BHAs, as they can increase sun sensitivity. Applying a broad-spectrum Sunscreen daily protects the skin from UV damage.

Topical Ingredients Not Good with BHAs or AHAs

1. Other Exfoliants (Physical or Chemical) Combining AHAs or BHAs with other exfoliating agents, whether physical scrubs or chemical exfoliants like enzymatic exfoliators, can lead to over-exfoliation. This can strip the skin of its natural oils, leading to irritation, dryness, and a compromised skin barrier.
2. Retinoids Both AHAs/BHAs and retinoids accelerate skin cell turnover, but using them together can increase skin sensitivity, dryness, and irritation.
3. Pure Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) Vitamin C, especially in its pure form, can become unstable or less effective in the presence of AHAs/BHAs due to differing optimal pH levels. Additionally, the combination can be irritating for sensitive skin types.
4. High Concentrations of Benzoyl Peroxide Benzoyl peroxide can cause dryness and peeling, similar to AHAs and BHAs. When used together, they can significantly increase the risk of skin irritation and dehydration.
5. Strong Alcohol-Based Products Alcohol can dry out the skin, and when used with AHAs or BHAs, it can exacerbate dryness and irritation, stripping the skin of its natural moisture.
6. SPF HAs can increase skin's sensitivity to the sun, making Sunscreen an essential part of your morning routine. Using a broad-spectrum SPF protects newly exposed skin from UV damage.

General Tips for Combining Ingredients with AHAs/BHAs

1. Hydration is Key: Incorporate hydrating ingredients like Hyaluronic acid and glycerin to maintain skin hydration.
2. Strengthen the Skin Barrier: Use ceramides, peptides, and Niacinamide to help support and repair the skin barrier.
3. Sun Protection: AHAs and BHAs increase photosensitivity, making broad-spectrum Sunscreen an essential part of your morning routine.
4. Patch Test: Always perform a patch test when introducing new products or combinations to your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin.
5. Listen to Your Skin: Pay attention to how your skin responds to certain combinations and adjust your routine accordingly to avoid irritation.

Are BHAs and AHAs Truly Vegan?

BHAs and AHAs can be vegan if derived from plant sources or synthesized without animal-derived substances, and if the overall product formulation and manufacturing process adhere to vegan principles. Consumers looking for vegan skincare products containing AHAs or BHAs should seek out transparent brands that offer clear information about their ingredients and practices.

Common Side Effects Using AHAs or BHAs

1. Irritation and Redness: Both AHAs and BHAs can cause skin irritation, leading to redness, especially in individuals with sensitive skin or when used in high concentrations.
2. Dryness and Flaking: These acids increase cell turnover, which can lead to dryness and flaking as the skin sheds dead cells. This effect can be more pronounced with AHAs in individuals with dry skin.
3. Increased Sun Sensitivity: AHAs, in particular, remove the outermost layer of the skin, which can increase sensitivity to UV radiation. Using a high-SPF sunscreen daily is crucial when incorporating AHAs into your skincare routine.
4. Burning Sensation: High concentrations of AHAs and BHAs can cause a burning or stinging sensation upon application, which should subside after a few minutes. Persistent burning indicates that the product may be too strong for your skin.
5. Purging: Some individuals may experience purging, a process where skin conditions such as acne temporarily worsen as the acids accelerate cell turnover. This is more common with BHAs due to their ability to penetrate deep into the pores.

Finishing Up

BHAs and AHAs are very effective in its own potentness. However, understanding which ingredients to use cautiously with AHAs and BHAs can help prevent adverse reactions, ensuring a more effective and harmonious skincare routine that addresses your skin's needs without causing irritation or damage.