| Source | Licorice plant |
| Origin | Long history topically |
| Effects | Brightening, Anti-inflammatory, Antioxidant, Oil Control |
| Side Effects | Skin Sensitivity, Hormonal Effects, Photosensitivity, Counteract with Medications |
| Syenrgy | Work well with all trending ingredients such as Vitamin C, or Niacinamide, |
| Optmal pH Level | Between 4 and 7 |
| Counteract | Synthetic Fragrances, Alcohol, Phytoestrogens, Chemical sunscreen, Exfoliants |
| Alternatives | Kojic Acid, Niacinamide, Alpha Arbutin, Vitamin C, and etc. |
| Versatility | Rank : 5 |
| Skin Compatibility | Rank : 5 |
| Normal Skin | Tone enhancement |
| Dry Skin | Hydration |
| Oily Skin | Pore reduction, Oil control |
| Combination Skin | Oil control & Hydration |
| Sensitive Skin | Anti-inflammtory |
| Acne-Prone Skin | Helps Inflammation and Hyperpigmentation |
| Mature Skin | Reduces Fine Lines & Wrinkles |
| Hyperpigmented Skin | Inhibits melanin production |
Licorice Extract
Licorice extract has been a staple in skincare for centuries, tapped from its rich roots in traditional medicine and cultural practices. There are countless skincare products in the market that utilize this ingredient in their serums, creams, lotions, and masks, and it’s all thanks to its lengthy list of benefits. It has the ability to brighten the skin, even the complexion, reduce redness and inflammation, and shield against oxidative stress.
History
Traditionally, the highly regarded licorice root's diverse healing attributes included its potent anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and antioxidant properties. Frequently, it was directly applied to ease irritations and manage conditions like eczema and psoriasis or to expedite the healing of wounds.
Modern Era
During the 20th century, scientific inquiries commenced, unveiling licorice extract's bioactive components and their prospective advantages for skin health. Namely, glycyrrhizin, a principal substance in licorice root and recognized for its formidable anti-inflammatory capabilities, was found to reduce redness and irritation when topically applied. The healing properties of licorice have been recognized for millennia, playing a role in many traditional medicines to soothe skin ailments.
Skincare Industry
Presently, licorice extract's widespread use in serums, creams, lotions, and masks as a skincare ingredient remains prevalent due to its ability to effectively improve skin luminosity, diminish uneven complexion, reduce redness and puffiness, and offer antioxidant protection.
Mechanism of Action
Inhibition of Tyrosinase Activity
Glabridin and liquiritin contained in licorice extract inhibit tyrosinase, an enzyme integral to melanin production in skin. By hindering tyrosinase function, licorice extract helps to lessen melanin synthesis for a clearer appearance.
Anti-Inflammatory Properties
Loaded with flavonoids and antioxidants, the extract eliminates destructive free radicals, guarding the skin from oxidative damage and environmental stresses, preventing premature aging as fine lines and wrinkles form more slowly.
Antioxidant Activity
The extract is rich in flavonoids and antioxidants that eliminate free radicals, safeguarding the skin from oxidative harm and environmental stressors, thus preventing premature aging and the emergence of fine lines and wrinkles.
Sebum Production Regulation
Studies show glabridin in licorice extract can tune the activity of 5-alpha-reductase, an enzyme involved in sebum production, thereby assisting in the management of oil on the skin's surface
Wound Healing and Skin Repair
The extract aids healing of injuries and repairs of the skin by boosting collagen formation and fibroblast proliferation, alongside its hydrating properties which boost skin moisture and barrier function.
Effects
- Brightening and Evening Skin Tone:
- It lightens dark spots and hyperpigmentation, achieving a more even skin tone.
- Anti-Inflammatory and Soothing:
- It alleviates redness, irritation, and inflammation, beneficial for sensitive skin types.
- Antioxidant Protection:
- Offers protection against oxidative stress, aiding in maintaining youthful skin.
- Oil Control and Acne Management:
- Helps in regulating oil production and managing acne.
- Moisturizing and Hydrating:
- Enhances moisture retention, leading to softer and more supple skin.
Potential Adverse Reactions
Allergic Responses to Skin
The glycyrrhizinic acid and flavonoids inherent in licorice extract have elicited hypersensitivity and allergies in some individuals upon external use. Long-term contact can potentially augment vulnerability over time.
Impact on Hormonal Balance
The glycyrrhizinic acid in licorice extract represses an enzyme that regulates cortisol levels, possibly leading to an boost. Constant application may cumulatively elevate internal cortisol concentrations.
Increased Sensitivity to Sunlight
While ingredients such as glabridin in licorice extract offer protective benefits counteracting pigmentation induced by ultraviolet light, excessive or prolonged application may paradoxically enhance photosensitivity in select users.
Drug Interaction Concerns
Glycyrrhizinic acid can hinder an enzyme implicated in metabolizing cortisol and medications, thereby possibly changing how the liver processes and the potency of pharmaceuticals due to disturbed breakdown. This enforces caution regarding extensive utilization.
Effects of Extended Application
Though reasonably safe in short term external use, over time or perpetually applying licorice extract carries risk of developing heightened reactivity or compounding residual impacts triggering progressive sensitization upon repeated contact.
Complementary Interactions
| Skin Issue | Complementary Ingredients | Rationale |
|---|---|---|
| Hyperpigmentation | Vitamin C, Alpha Arbutin, Niacinamide | The combination with licorice extract enhances the lightening effects and visibly improves the appearance of hyperpigmentation. |
| Acne-prone Complexions | Salicylic Acid, Tea Tree Oil, Benzoyl Peroxide | When used together, these components are effective in addressing acne concerns, including inflammation and excess sebum production. |
| Dry Complexion | Hyaluronic Acid, Glycerin, Ceramides | This hydrating combination enhances moisture retention and strengthens the skin barrier when used alongside licorice extract. |
| Oily Complexion | Witch Hazel, Willow Bark Extract, Niacinamide | These ingredients assist in regulating oil secretion and reducing pore size, ideal for oily or combination skin types. |
| Aging Complexion | Retinol, Peptides, Vitamin C, Hyaluronic Acid | This combination effectively targets aging signs like fine lines, wrinkles, and elasticity loss. |
| Sensitive Complexion | Centella Asiatica, Chamomile Extract, Green Tea Extract | These soothing components mitigate irritation and diminish redness in sensitive skins. |
Ideal pH Levels
Determining the optimal pH level for licorice extract can be intricate considering its potency may fluctuate relying on compounding factors and additional components. The most favorable pH scope maintains stability and vitality of licorice's dynamic elements like glabridin and liquiritin while considering skin's normal pH range.
Optimal pH Range for Ingredient
Formulations containing licorice extract work best when pH coordinates nearer to skin's typical mildly acidic to neutral pH of around 4.5 to 5.5 for ideal compatibility.
Skin pH Compatibility
The most suitable pH for licorice extract likely considers the skin's inherent pH, which commonly hovers near pH 4.5 to 5.5—only slightly acidic. Formulations attuned to this narrow normal skin pH band are best equipped to harmonize with the skin.
Ingredients to Avoid
| Concern | Ingredients to Sidestep | Brief Explanation |
|---|---|---|
| Allergic Reactions | Synthetic Fragrances, Parabens, Sulfates | Sidestepping these potential irritants is crucial for sensitive skin types. |
| Sensitivity | Alcohol, Synthetic Dyes, Essential Oils | Avoiding these can help prevent further sensitivity and irritation. |
| Hormonal Imbalance | Phytoestrogens, Hormone-disrupting Chemicals | Avoiding these helps preserve hormonal equilibrium and prevent disruptions. |
| Photosensitivity | Chemical Sunscreens, Citrus Oils, Photosensitizing Agents | Steering clear reduces the risk of sun sensitivity and phototoxic reactions. |
| Dryness | Alcohol Denat., High Concentrations of AHA/BHA | Avoiding these prevents skin dehydration and maintains moisture balance. |
| Breakouts | Heavy Oils, Comedogenic Ingredients | Minimizing use can reduce pore blockage and lower the chances of acne formation. |
Suitability for Skin Types
- Normal Complexion:
- Maintaining a balanced complexion relies on environmental defense and protection against daily stresses. Its soothing properties safeguard and stabilize skin's natural radiance.
- Dry Complexion:
- ts emollient ingredients replenish, nourish and restore supple texture and a healthy glow.
- Oily Complexion:
- It delicately regulates oil production while refining pores to achieve a fresh and shine-free appearance.
- Combination Complexion:
- A delicate formula targets each dry, and oily area, balancing all areas for an even and calm complexion.
- Sensitive Complexion:
- It soothes and assuages sensitive areas, alleviating discomfort and minimizing redness, or irritation.
- Acne-Prone Complexion:
- Helps diminish inflammation and hyperpigmentation from acne, offering benefits for breakout-prone skin.
- Mature Complexion:
- Antioxidants properties defend against oxidative stress, diminishing signs of aging for restored vibrancy.
- Hyperpigmented Complexion:
- Over time, it inhibits melanin production and fades hyperpigmentation for an even-toned and luminous skin.
Alternative Ingredients
Bearberry Extract
Derived from the bearberry plant, arbutin is much like licorice extract in its ability to inhibit tyrosinase, thereby inhibiting melanin formation and lightening and unifying skin tone result effectively.
Fungal-Derived Lightener
Sourced from fungi, kojic acid mirrors licorice extract's melanin inhbiting abilities, aiding in the lightening of hyperpigmentation and dark spots.
Multifunctional Vitamin B3
Niacinamide is an influential yet gentle ingredient that provides anti-inflammatory, barrier-enhancing, and sebum-regulation benefits, without the irritation caused by many other ingredients that help fade pigmentation and fight acne.
Stabilized Bearberry Derivative
This stronger form of arbutin blocks tyrosinase activity to significantly reduce melanin production for visibly brighter, dark-spot-limited skin.
Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid)
The powerful antioxidant vitamin C promotes a brighter complexion as it fades pigmentation, and offers some environmental protection as a bonus. It enhances the benefits of other brightening ingredients so they can work even better to improve an uneven skin tone.
Natural Azelaic acid
Azelaic acid, found naturally in grains, has potent antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties that make it effective against acne and redness, and it helps fade pigmentation, too, making it a valuable licorice extract alternative.
Polyphenol-Rich Botanical Extract
Green tea extract is filled with catechins, a class of polyphenols, which are powerful antioxidants that calm inflammation, shield skin from environmental damage, and interrupt the process that leads to the skin’s pigmentation.
Role Across Different Product Formats
Serums
In serums, licorice extract acts as a targeted treatment agent to address hyperpigmentation, inflammation, and redness with its ability to deeply penetrate skin and offer potent brightening and soothing benefits.
Hydrating Creams
In moisturizers, it hydrates as it increases luminosity and reduces the appearance of uneven tone and dark spots. It can also be used to calm irritated skin, making it perfect for daily use.
Toners
In toners, it works wonders to balance skin pH and help reduce the appearance of pore size. Additionally, it primes the skin for optimal penetration of following skincare items, all while calming redness and irritation.
Essences
Essences use licorice extract for its ability to offer lightweight moisture as it helps to increase luminosity, reduce footprint of pigmentation, and correct discoloration.
Masks
Sheet masks infuse skin with a high concentration of brightening and soothing ingredients to help skin look more radiant and reduce inflammation so that skin appears more toned.
Spot patches
In targeted treatments, such as spot patches for dark spots, acne scars, and redness in general, it fades pigmentation and calms inflammation to help skin transcend clarity and glow from within over time.
Cleansers
Incleansers, it can be used on a regular basis in order to reap some of the mild skin brightening and dark spot-reducing benefits, while it lifts away impurities and excess oil without depleting skin's natural moisture.
Eye creams
Eye creams with licorice extract lighten and depuff the under-eye region, diminishing dark circle visibility and fine line appearance while soothing irritation and signs of tiredness.
Vegan Status
Derived from the roots of the licorice plant (Glycyrrhiza glabra), licorice extract is basically vegan-compatible. However, the extractive process involves soaking the plant roots in a solvent, which might occasionally utilize animal-derived solvents or aids.
Common Misunderstandings
Only Used For Skin Lightening
While licorice extract is best-known for its skin whitening abilities, it actually boasts a range of skincare benefits, including anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and soothing properties that can make it suitable for acne, redness and irritation issues.
The Quality Depends on Products
The efficacy and quality of licorice extract can vary greatly. It’s more than just a good versus bad situation, but different licorice plant species, extraction techniques and varying levels of active ingredients can all affect results across different skincare issues.
It Works For Every Skin Type
While it’s suitable for most skin types, including sensitive skin, there’s a little room for concern: some people may have allergic reactions or otherwise react poorly to licorice. Pre-application patch testing and checking with a dermatologist can help to determine if you’re compatible.
Efficacy Across Concentrations
While higher concentrations may offer the best results for whatever your skin problem may be, lower concentrations can still provide a great deal of benefit, including some subtle effects for antioxidant protection and brightening.
It's Not Safe For Long Term Uses
Safety studies of licorice extract note that with centuries of being used in traditional medicine and skin care, as long as it’s being used in recommended amounts and methods, it’s safe for a long, long time.
People Also Ask About Licorice Extract
A: Indeed, licorice extract is generally well-received by various skin types, including those that are sensitive. Its properties that reduce inflammation and soothe make it a good choice for people with sensitive or easily reactive skin, as it can alleviate irritation and lessen redness.
A: Licorice extract in itself does not heighten sensitivity to the sun. Nonetheless, certain products containing licorice extract might also contain ingredients that sensitize the skin to sunlight or exfoliants that increase sun sensitivity. Utilizing sunscreen during daytime is advisable when applying products with licorice extract to shield the skin from UV harm.
A: Absolutely, licorice extract can be combined safely with various skincare components like vitamin C, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and retinol. It can boost the effectiveness of these components, offering additional skin benefits.
A: Licorice extract typically lacks a potent scent. However, skincare products incorporating licorice extract might contain fragrances or essential oils for aroma. Those sensitive to fragrances should inspect the product ingredients list before use.
A: Licorice extract is gentle enough for use around the sensitive eye area. Its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties can aid in reducing puffiness, dark circles, and inflammation around the eyes.
A: Licorice extract is mostly non-comedogenic, meaning it is not likely to block pores or trigger acne. However, individuals with acne-prone skin should test new products with licorice extract on a small skin area to ensure skin compatibility.
A: While licorice extract generally has a stable shelf life, verifying the expiration date on product packaging is crucial. Storing it correctly, away from direct sunlight and extreme temperatures, can help preserve its effectiveness over time.
A: Licorice extract can be beneficial in addressing body acne, including back acne. Its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties can reduce inflammation and soothe irritated skin, leading to clearer and smoother skin texture.
A: The lightening effects of licorice extract can help reduce the visibility of scars, especially those resulting from acne or hyperpigmentation, over time. Consistent application may lead to a more uniform skin tone and less noticeable scars.
A: The lightening effects of licorice extract can help reduce the visibility of scars, especially those resulting from acne or hyperpigmentation, over time. Consistent application may lead to a more uniform skin tone and less noticeable scars.
A: Yes, licorice extract contains antioxidants that help protect the skin from free radical damage, which can contribute to premature aging. Additionally, its ability to reduce inflammation and promote collagen synthesis may help improve skin elasticity and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
A: Licorice extract can be used alongside chemical exfoliants like alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs). Its soothing effects can mitigate potential irritation from exfoliating components, making it a suitable part of an inclusive skincare regimen.
Recommended Products
(!) We are not affiliated with the brand listed below. We measure carefully to find the best ones.
For Sensitive Skin
The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution ($8.7)
This product incorporates licorice root extract for mild exfoliation while soothing and reducing skin sensitivity.
For Acne-Prone Skin
AcneFree Sulfur Mask with Vitamin C and Licorice Root Extract ($28.97)
AcneFree Sulfur Mask blends the anti-inflammatory advantages of sulfur and licorice root extract with vitamin C's brightening properties, targeting acne, redness, and hyperpigmentation.
For Hyperpigmentation
COSRX Triple C Lightning Liquid ($27)
A potent serum with 20.5% pure ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and licorice root extract, is crafted to lighten dark spots and even skin tone.
For Mature Skin
Kiehl’s Clearly Corrective Dark Spot Solution ($155)
Enriched with licorice root and activated C (a form of vitamin C), aims to diminish dark spots and hyperpigmentation, enhancing clarity and brightness for mature skin.
For Dry Skin
First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Cream ($38)
First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Cream merges licorice extract with niacinamide and vitamin C, targeting dullness and discoloration while hydrating, making it ideal for dry skin types.
For All Skin Types
EltaMD UV Clear Broad-Spectrum SPF 46 ($34)
This sunscreen not only shields the skin from UV rays but also includes licorice root extract to lessen redness and promote a more even skin tone, suitable for all skin types.
