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A woman with tips of cream on her face. Image from Unsplash.
A woman with tips of cream on her face. Image from Unsplash.
Facts About New Topical Ingredients
Effectiveness & Benefits
Anti-Aging & Skin Renewal Bakuchiol, Granactive Retinoid, Peptides, Copper Peptides
Gentle Exfoliation Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs)
Soothing & Healing Cica (Centella Asiatica), Copper Peptides
Microbiome Support Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide
Research Status
Well-Researched with Growing Data Bakuchiol, Peptides
Emerging with Promising Early Results Granactive Retinoid, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide
Traditional Use with Modern Research Cica
Niche with Targeted Research Copper Peptides, Polyhydroxy Acids
Market Status
Widely Available Bakuchiol, Cica (Centella Asiatica), Peptides
Increasingly Available in OTC Products Granactive Retinoid, PHAs
Specialty Use Copper Peptides
Growing in Prebiotic Skincare Lines Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide

Introduction

The world of skincare is continuously evolving, with ongoing research uncovering new and promising topical ingredients. These emerging stars offer benefits that can rival or complement traditional skincare powerhouses.

Emerging Stars

New emerging stars such as bakuchiol, tretinoin, PHAs, peptides, cica, alpha glucan, or copper peptides are under active research. These ingredients represent the cutting edge of skincare science, with research continually uncovering their mechanisms of action and potential benefits.

Bakuchiol

  • Overview: Often touted as a natural alternative to retinol, Bakuchiol is derived from the seeds and leaves of the Psoralea corylifolia plant. It has gained attention for its ability to mimic retinol's anti-aging effects without the associated irritation.
  • Research Insights: Studies suggest that Bakuchiol helps reduce wrinkles, fine lines, and hyperpigmentation. It promotes collagen production and skin elasticity, similar to retinol, but is gentle on the skin, making it suitable for those with sensitive skin or retinol intolerance.
  • Market Status Widely available in OTC skincare products. Due to its popularity as a gentler alternative to retinol, bakuchiol has been incorporated into creams, serums, and oils aimed at consumers seeking anti-aging benefits without irritation.

Related:Why Bakuchiol is better than Retinol.

Granactive Retinoid

  1. Overview: Granactive Retinoid is a newer generation of retinoid that offers similar benefits to Tretinoin (a potent form of retinol used for acne and aging) but with reduced skin irritation.
  2. Research Insights: This ingredient is under investigation for its effectiveness in treating acne and signs of aging, with preliminary findings indicating that it can significantly improve skin texture and reduce acne lesions with minimal side effects.
  3. Market Status
  4. Granactive Retinoid, a less irritating form of retinoid, is available in OTC products. It's designed to offer similar benefits to tretinoin (which requires a prescription) but is more accessible.

Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs)

  1. Overview: PHAs, such as Gluconolactone and Lactobionic acid, are chemical exfoliants that are less known than AHAs and BHAs. They offer gentle exfoliation, making them suitable for sensitive skin types.
  2. Research Insights: Studies show that PHAs not only exfoliate the skin but also have antioxidant properties and enhance skin barrier function. They attract moisture to the skin, providing hydration alongside exfoliation.
  3. Market Status PHAs are found in OTC products. Their gentle nature makes them suitable for daily use in exfoliating toners, moisturizers, and masks, catering to those with sensitive skin or those who find AHAs and BHAs too harsh.

Peptides

  1. Overview: While peptides are becoming more common in skincare, newer sequences and formulations are constantly under research. These short chains of amino acids act as building blocks of proteins like collagen and elastin in the skin.
  2. Research Insights: Innovative peptides are being studied for their wound-healing, anti-aging, and skin-rejuvenating properties. Some peptides are designed to mimic growth factors, potentially accelerating skin repair and regeneration.
  3. Market Status Peptides are commonly available in OTC formulations, including serums, creams, and masks. The skincare market has embraced peptides for their wide range of benefits, from anti-aging to skin barrier repair, without the need for a prescription.

Cica

  1. Overview: Also known as Gotu Kola, Cica has been a staple in traditional medicine and is now gaining prominence in skincare for its healing, soothing, and anti-inflammatory properties.
  2. Research Insights: Recent studies focus on its efficacy in treating inflammatory skin conditions, boosting collagen production, and improving hydration and elasticity. Cica is particularly noted for its ability to soothe sensitive and acne-prone skin.
  3. Market Status
  4. Cica is readily available in OTC skincare products, particularly in lines targeting sensitive, irritated, or acne-prone skin.

Related:What Does Cica Do On Your Skin?

Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide

  1. Overview: A prebiotic ingredient that supports the skin’s microbiome, promoting a healthy balance of skin flora.
  2. Research Insights: Emerging research suggests that it can strengthen the skin's barrier, reduce sensitivity, and prevent microbial imbalances that lead to acne and eczema.
  3. Market Status
  4. This prebiotic ingredient is available in OTC products designed to support the skin’s microbiome. It can be found in a variety of formulations aimed at improving skin health and is suitable for daily use

Copper Peptides

  1. Overview: Copper peptides are small protein fragments that have a high affinity for copper ions, known for their skin regeneration properties.
  2. Research Insights: They are under research for promoting collagen and elastin production, enhancing wound healing, and acting as antioxidants. Their potential for reversing aging signs and improving skin firmness and texture is a particular focus.
  3. Market Status Copper peptides are available in OTC products but are also featured in more specialized, often pricier, formulations due to their potent skin regeneration properties.

Related:Copper Peptides

Finishing up

The skincare market is continuously evolving, with research and innovation expanding the range of ingredients available. This has led to an increase in specialized products that address a variety of skin concerns with novel mechanisms of action.

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Note About New Topical Ingredients

While emerging ingredients offer alternative benefits and sometimes better tolerability, they complement rather than replace traditional actives. Choice depends on skin type, concerns, and personal preference.

People Also Ask About New Topical Ingredients

A: Combining skincare ingredients requires understanding their functions and potential interactions. While most of new ingredients can be safely combined, it’s advisable to introduce new products gradually and monitor skin's response.

A: Sustainability and ethical sourcing are increasingly important in ingredient development. Ingredients like Cica and Bakuchiol, when sustainably sourced, reflect this trend. Consumers are encouraged to research brands’ practices.

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