Niacinamide

Niacinamide

Niacinamide has become a staple ingredient in many skincare products. Its versatility and well-tolerated nature have contributed to its widespread use. Niacinamide's ability to address multiple skin concerns, from acne to aging, has made it a favorite among skincare enthusiasts

History

Niacinamide was first discovered as a component of the vitamin B complex in the early 20th century. Its therapeutic properties were recognized for treating conditions like pellagra, a niacin deficiency disease characterized by dermatitis, diarrhea, and dementia.

Dermatological Applications

In the mid-20th century, researchers began studying the topical application of niacinamide for various dermatological conditions. Studies showed that niacinamide had anti-inflammatory properties, making it effective for treating inflammatory skin conditions like acne, rosacea, and eczema.

Skin Barrier Function

Research in the late 20th and early 21st centuries focused on niacinamide's role in improving skin barrier function. Studies demonstrated that niacinamide helps to strengthen the skin's natural barrier, reducing water loss and enhancing moisture retention.

Related:Topical Ingredients For Skin Barrier

Today

Niacinamide is recognized for its broad spectrum of skincare benefits, including its antioxidant property, its ability regulating sebum production, and anti-inflammatory properties. These effects are beneficial for all skin types.

Mechanism of Action

NAD+ and NADP+

By replenishing NAD+ and NADP+ levels in skin cells, niacinamide supports cellular energy production, enhances DNA repair processes, and boosts antioxidant activity, leading to healthier and more resilient skin.

Ceramide Synthesis

Niacinamide stimulates the synthesis of ceramides in the skin by increasing ceramide level. In return, niacinamide helps to strengthen the skin barrier, improve hydration, and protect against environmental stressors, such as pollution and UV radiation.

Inhibition of Melanosome Transfer

By inhibiting melanosome transfer, niacinamide helps to lighten dark spots, even out skin tone, and reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation caused by sun damage or hormonal changes.

Anti-Inflammatory Activity

Niacinamide modulates the expression and activity of pro-inflammatory cytokines and mediators, such as interleukins and tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α). By exerting anti-inflammatory effects, niacinamide helps to soothe redness.

Regulation of Sebum Production

Sebocytes are specialized cells in the skin's sebaceous glands responsible for producing sebum, the skin's natural oil. Niacinamide regulates sebum production by modulating the activity of sebocytes and reducing excessive oil secretion.

Antioxidant Defense

Niacinamide enhances the activity of antioxidant enzymes, such as superoxide dismutase (SOD) and glutathione peroxidase. Niacinamide boosts the skin's antioxidant defense mechanisms, neutralizing free radicals and protecting against oxidative stress-induced damage.

Effects

Improves Skin Barrier Function

Niacinamide helps to strengthen the skin's natural barrier, preventing moisture loss and enhancing hydration. By promoting the synthesis of ceramides, essential lipids that form the skin barrier, niacinamide supports overall skin barrier function.

Reduces Hyperpigmentation

Niacinamide inhibits the transfer of melanin from melanocytes to keratinocytes, leading to a reduction in hyperpigmentation. Regular use of niacinamide can help to lighten dark spots, even out skin tone, and improve overall skin radiance.

Soothes Inflammation

Niacinamide helps to suppress the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines and mediators, alleviating symptoms of inflammatory skin conditions like acne, rosacea, and eczema.

Regulates Sebum Production

By reducing excessive oil secretion, niacinamide helps to minimize shine, prevent clogged pores, and reduce the frequency of acne breakouts.

Boosts Collagen Production

Niacinamide stimulates collagen synthesis in the skin, promoting firmness, elasticity, and overall skin resilience. Increased collagen production helps to minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, leading to smoother and more youthful-looking skin.

Related:Collagen Might Be Just A Hype

Enhances Antioxidant Defense

Niacinamide boosts the skin's antioxidant defense mechanisms, neutralizing free radicals and protecting against oxidative stress. By enhancing the activity of antioxidant enzymes like superoxide dismutase (SOD) and glutathione peroxidase, niacinamide helps to prevent premature aging.

Improves Elasticity

Niacinamide helps to improve skin elasticity by promoting collagen synthesis and supporting the skin's natural repair processes. Enhanced elasticity results in firmer, more supple skin with improved bounce and resilience.

Reduces Trans-Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL)

Niacinamide helps to reduce trans-epidermal water loss, maintaining optimal hydration levels in the skin. By strengthening the skin barrier and preventing moisture loss, niacinamide helps to keep the skin hydrated, plump, and healthy.

Side Effects

Skin Irritation

While niacinamide is generally well-tolerated by most individuals, niacinamide may cause skin irritation, redness, or itching, especially in individuals with sensitive skin or those using high concentrations of niacinamide.

Allergic Reactions

Although uncommon, allergic reactions to niacinamide can occur in some individuals, leading to symptoms such as rash, hives, or swelling.

Acne Breakouts

While niacinamide is often recommended for acne-prone skin due to its sebum-regulating properties, some individuals may experience temporary acne breakouts when first using niacinamide.

Flushing

Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3, and in high doses, it can cause flushing, a temporary redness and warmth of the skin even though topical niacinamide products are typically formulated to minimize the risk of flushing

Exacerbation of Rosacea

While niacinamide has anti-inflammatory properties that can help soothe redness and inflammation associated with rosacea for many people, some individuals may experience exacerbation of their symptoms with niacinamide use.

Sensitivity to Sun

There is some evidence to suggest that niacinamide may increase skin sensitivity to sunlight, although the effect is minimal compared to other exfoliating ingredients like AHAs or retinoids.

Synergy

Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic acid is a humectant that attracts and retains moisture in the skin, keeping it hydrated and plump. When combined with niacinamide, hyaluronic acid helps to lock in moisture, enhancing hydration and improving skin texture and elasticity.

Related:Why Your Hyaluronic Acid May Not Work, According To Its Renowned Effects.

Vitamin C

Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that brightens the skin, fades dark spots, and protects against environmental damage. Niacinamide and vitamin C work synergistically to boost each other's antioxidant properties.

Related:I was wrong about Vitaminc C on Skins. How to glow up your skin with Vitamin C.

Retinol

Niacinamide complements the effects of retinol by enhancing the skin's barrier function, reducing irritation, and minimizing the risk of retinol-induced dryness or sensitivity.

Related:What is Retinol?

Ceramides

Ceramides are lipid molecules that help to maintain the skin barrier, preventing moisture loss and protecting against environmental damage. Niacinamide promotes the synthesis of ceramides in the skin, reinforcing the skin barrier.

Related:Ceramides

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

Niacinamide enhances the moisturizing effects of AHAs and helps to minimize irritation or sensitivity, allowing for more comfortable and effective exfoliation without compromising the skin barrier.

Related:Learn More About AHAs, and BHAs.

Peptides

Peptides are amino acid chains that help to stimulate collagen synthesis, improve skin firmness, and reduce the appearance of wrinkles. Niacinamide supports the skin's natural repair processes and enhances the efficacy of peptides.

Antioxidants

Antioxidants like green tea extract, resveratrol, and coenzyme Q10 protect the skin from oxidative stress and free radical damage. Niacinamide boosts the antioxidant defense mechanisms of the skin, enhancing the efficacy of antioxidants.

Avoid With

Ingredients to Avoid with Niacinamide	Reason for Avoidance
Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid)	Potential destabilization of niacinamide; may cause flushing or redness in some individuals.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)	Potential risk of skin irritation and sensitivity when used together with niacinamide.
Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)	Potential risk of skin irritation and sensitivity when used together with niacinamide.
Retinoids (Retinol, Retin-A)	Potential risk of skin irritation and sensitivity when used together with niacinamide.
Benzoyl Peroxide	Potential risk of skin irritation and dryness when used together with niacinamide.
Azelaic Acid	Limited evidence of interactions; some individuals may experience sensitivities or adverse reactions when using niacinamide and azelaic acid together.

Optimal pH Levels

The optimal pH level for niacinamide in skincare products is typically considered to be around pH 5 to pH 7. Niacinamide is stable within this pH range and remains effective in providing its skincare benefits.

For Each Skin Type

Normal Skin

• Benefits: Niacinamide helps maintain skin barrier function, improving hydration and protecting against environmental damage. It also promotes even skin tone and texture.
• Usage: Normal skin types can incorporate niacinamide into their routine as a preventive measure to maintain skin health and address minor concerns like uneven tone or occasional breakouts.

Dry Skin

• Benefits: Niacinamide boosts ceramide production, enhancing moisture retention and preventing dehydration. It also soothes dry, irritated skin and improves its overall resilience.
• Usage: Dry skin types can benefit from niacinamide-rich moisturizers or serums to improve hydration levels, strengthen the skin barrier, and reduce sensitivity.

Oily Skin

• Benefits: Niacinamide regulates sebum production, reducing excess oiliness and preventing clogged pores and breakouts. It also minimizes the appearance of enlarged pores and controls shine.
• Usage: Oily skin types can incorporate niacinamide into their routine to balance oil production, mattify the skin, and improve overall clarity without stripping or drying out the skin.

Combination Skin

• Benefits: Niacinamide addresses multiple concerns commonly seen in combination skin, such as uneven texture, enlarged pores, and occasional breakouts. It helps balance oil production in the T-zone while maintaining hydration in drier areas.
• Usage: Combination skin types can benefit from niacinamide products applied to specific areas of concern, such as the forehead, nose, and chin, to achieve a more balanced and harmonized complexion.

Acne-Prone Skin

• Benefits: Niacinamide has anti-inflammatory properties that help calm redness and irritation associated with acne. It also regulates sebum production, reduces pore congestion, and prevents the formation of new breakouts.
• Usage: Acne-prone skin types can use niacinamide in their daily skincare routine to help manage acne symptoms, minimize breakouts, and improve overall skin health without causing dryness or irritation.

Sensitive Skin

• Benefits: Niacinamide soothes and calms sensitive skin, reducing redness, inflammation, and discomfort. It strengthens the skin barrier, making it more resilient and less reactive to external stressors.
• Usage: Sensitive skin types can benefit from niacinamide products formulated with gentle, non-irritating ingredients to help alleviate sensitivity, restore balance, and improve overall skin tolerance.

Alternatives

Skin Concern	Alternatives to Niacinamide
Hyperpigmentation	Vitamin C, alpha arbutin, and licorice extract are effective alternatives for brightening dark spots and evening out skin tone.
Acne-prone Skin	Salicylic acid, tea tree oil, and benzoyl peroxide target acne-causing bacteria and help clear blemishes.
Dry Skin	Hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and squalane are hydrating ingredients that replenish moisture and improve skin barrier function.
Oily Skin	Willow bark extract, witch hazel, and zinc PCA regulate oil production and minimize the appearance of pores.
Aging Skin	Retinol, peptides, and vitamin C are potent anti-aging ingredients that stimulate collagen production and reduce wrinkles.
Sensitive Skin	Centella asiatica, chamomile extract, and aloe vera soothe and calm irritated skin without causing further sensitivity or inflammation.

Vegan status

Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3 or nicotinamide, is typically considered vegan-friendly. It is a water-soluble form of vitamin B3 that is synthesized from natural sources, such as vegetables, grains, and legumes, or produced synthetically in laboratories.

Sources

• Plant-Derived Sources: Niacinamide can be derived from plant-based sources, making it inherently vegan-friendly. These sources include vegetables like green peas, potatoes, and leafy greens, as well as grains like wheat and rice.
• Synthetic Production: Niacinamide can also be produced synthetically through chemical processes, where it is created from non-animal-derived starting materials. This synthetic form of niacinamide is widely used in skincare and cosmetic products and is suitable for vegan lifestyles.

What It Does in Each Format of Products

Serums

• What It Does: Niacinamide serums are lightweight, fast-absorbing formulations that deliver a high concentration of niacinamide to the skin.
• Benefits:
  • Improves skin texture and tone.
  • Boosts hydration and strengthens the skin barrier.
  • Reduces the appearance of enlarged pores and fine lines.
• Best For: All skin types, especially those looking to address multiple concerns like uneven tone, texture, and aging.

Moisturizers

• What It Does: Niacinamide moisturizers combine niacinamide with hydrating ingredients to provide long-lasting moisture and skin-nourishing benefits.
• Benefits:
  • Hydrates and replenishes dry or dehydrated skin.
  • Strengthens the skin barrier and improves resilience.
  • Reduces redness and calms irritation.
• Best For: Dry, sensitive, or aging skin in need of intense hydration and barrier repair.

Related:Choosing Moisturizers For Your Glowing Skin

Creams

• What It Does: Niacinamide creams offer a richer, more emollient texture compared to serums, providing deep hydration and nourishment.
• Benefits:
  • Softens and smooths rough or dry patches.
  • Firms and plumps the skin for a more youthful appearance.
  • Helps soothe and protect the skin from environmental stressors.
• Best For: Normal to dry skin types, particularly during colder months or for nighttime use.

Toners

• What It Does: Niacinamide toners are lightweight, liquid formulas designed to balance the skin's pH and prep it for subsequent skincare steps.
• Benefits:
  • Minimizes the appearance of pores and refines skin texture.
  • Calms redness and irritation.
  • Provides a refreshing, hydrating boost to the skin.
• Best For: Oily, combination, or acne-prone skin seeking gentle exfoliation and oil control.

Related:Do You Need A Toner?

Essences

• What It Does: Niacinamide essences are lightweight, watery formulations packed with active ingredients to hydrate and brighten the skin.
• Benefits:
  • Enhances skin radiance and promotes a more even complexion.
  • Improves moisture retention and strengthens the skin barrier.
  • Helps reduce the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation.
• Best For: All skin types, especially those concerned with dullness, uneven tone, and hydration.

Incorporating to Your Routine

Morning Routine

1. Cleanser: Start your morning skincare routine by cleansing your face with a gentle cleanser to remove any dirt, oil, and impurities accumulated overnight.
2. Toner (Optional): If you use a toner, apply it to clean skin to balance pH levels and prepare your skin for subsequent products.
3. Niacinamide Serum: Apply a niacinamide serum to your face and neck, gently patting it into the skin until fully absorbed. This helps target various skin concerns such as hyperpigmentation, fine lines, and enlarged pores.
4. Moisturizer: Follow up with a lightweight moisturizer to lock in moisture and provide hydration throughout the day. Choose a moisturizer with niacinamide for added benefits.
5. Sunscreen: Finish your morning routine with a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher. Niacinamide pairs well with sunscreen as it helps enhance the skin's barrier function and protects against environmental damage.
6. Makeup (Optional): If you wear makeup, you can proceed with your makeup routine after applying sunscreen.

Nighttime Routine

1. Cleanser: Begin your nighttime routine by thoroughly cleansing your face to remove makeup, sunscreen, and any impurities accumulated throughout the day.
2. Exfoliation (Optional): If you exfoliate your skin at night, apply your exfoliating product according to the manufacturer's instructions. Niacinamide can complement the exfoliation process by soothing and hydrating the skin.
3. Toner (Optional): Use a toner if desired to balance the skin's pH levels and prepare it for subsequent products.
4. Niacinamide Serum: Apply a niacinamide serum to clean, dry skin, focusing on areas of concern such as hyperpigmentation or uneven texture.
5. Treatment Products (Optional): If you use any additional treatment products like retinoids or acne treatments, apply them after niacinamide serum and according to the product instructions.
6. Moisturizer: Follow up with a nourishing moisturizer to hydrate and replenish the skin overnight. Look for a moisturizer containing niacinamide for added benefits.
7. Eye Cream (Optional): Apply an eye cream to the delicate skin around the eyes to hydrate and address specific concerns like dark circles or fine lines.
8. Lip Care (Optional): Finish your nighttime routine by applying a hydrating lip balm to keep your lips soft and moisturized while you sleep.

Misconceptions

Niacinamide Causes Flushing

Fact: Unlike niacin, niacinamide does not cause flushing or redness. It is a non-irritating form of vitamin B3 that is well-tolerated by most individuals, including those with sensitive skin.

Niacinamide Cannot Be Used with Vitamin C:

Fact: While some early studies suggested that niacinamide and vitamin C may interact and form niacin, newer research has debunked this myth. In reality, niacinamide and vitamin C can be used together safely and effectively, as they offer complementary benefits for the skin.

Niacinamide Causes Acne Breakouts

Fact: Niacinamide is non-comedogenic, meaning it does not clog pores. In fact, niacinamide has been shown to regulate sebum production, reduce pore size, and decrease the frequency of acne breakouts, making it a beneficial ingredient for acne-prone skin.

Niacinamide Is Only for Mature Skin

Fact: Niacinamide is a versatile ingredient that offers benefits for all ages and skin types. It helps improve skin texture, tone, and hydration, making it suitable for individuals of all ages and addressing various skin concerns, including acne, hyperpigmentation, and sensitivity.

Niacinamide Is Not Effective in Skincare

Fact: Niacinamide is a highly effective skincare ingredient with numerous proven benefits for the skin. It enhances skin barrier function, reduces inflammation, regulates sebum production, and improves overall skin health without causing irritation or sensitivity.