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A person making a foam out of a face cleanser in a bathroom with running water. Image from Unsplash
A person making a foam out of a face cleanser in a bathroom with running water. Image from Unsplash
Facts About Salicylic Acid
Salicylic Acid
Type Beta-Hydroxy Acid (BHA)
Source Natural/Synthetic
Historical Origin Willow Bark Wood
Good For Exfoliation, Anti-inflammatory, Antimicrobial, Sebum reduction
Effects Cell Renewal, Acne Treatment, Improves Skin Texture and Tone.
Side Effects Dryness, Irritation, Peeling, Photosensitivity
Synergy Niacinamide, Glycolic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Retinoids(Low Const.), Licorice Extract, Tea Tree Oil
Optimal pH Level For Skin Barrier (Over 4), For Exfoliation (Below 3) :
Avoid With Benzoyl Peroxide, AHAs, Retinoids (High const.) Sulfur, Scrubs
Alternatives Glyocolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Azelaic Acid, Benzoyl Peroxide. Retinoids
Available In Cleansers, Toners, Serums, Spot treatments, Moisturiser
For Each Skin Type
For All Skin Beneficial, varies with concentration.
Oily Skin
Combination Skin
Acne-Prone Skin
Normal Skin
Dry or Sensitive Skin
Aging Skin

Salicylic Acid

Salicylic acid's journey as a topical ingredient spans centuries, evolving from ancient medicinal use to its widespread incorporation into modern skincare formulations. It's often used for acne-prone, and oily skin with clogged pores, and is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA).

History

The medicinal use of salicylic acid can be traced back to ancient civilizations such as the Greeks, who utilized willow bark—a natural source of salicylic acid—for its pain-relieving and anti-inflammatory properties.

Nineteenth Century Discoveries

In the 19th century, chemists began isolating and synthesizing salicylic acid from natural sources like willow bark. The French pharmacist Henri Leroux successfully isolated salicylic acid from salicin in 1838, paving the way for its medicinal applications.

Advancements

Salicylic acid's keratolytic (exfoliating) properties made it a valuable ingredient in topical treatments for various dermatological conditions, including acne, psoriasis, and warts. Cosmetic companies began incorporating salicylic acid into skincare products, such as cleansers, toners, and spot treatments, to address concerns.

Today

  1. Over-the-Counter Products: Salicylic acid became a staple ingredient in over-the-counter skincare products designed for acne-prone and oily skin types.
  2. Prescription Treatments: Dermatologists prescribe higher concentrations of salicylic acid for more severe skin conditions, such as stubborn acne or psoriasis.
  3. Chemical Peels: Salicylic acid is commonly used in chemical peels to exfoliate the skin, improve skin tone and texture, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
  4. Innovation: Ongoing research and technological advancements continue to drive innovation in salicylic acid formulations, focusing on improving efficacy, stability, and tolerability.

Mechanisms

Exfoliation Mechanisms

Salicylic acid's hydrophilic carboxylic acid group and hydrophobic aromatic ring enable it to penetrate the stratum corneum, reaching deeper layers of the skin. Upon penetration, salicylic acid exerts its keratolytic effect by disrupting intercellular lipids and desmosomes, leading to gentle exfoliation.

Anti-inflammatory Mechanisms

Salicylic acid inhibits the activity of cyclooxygenase (COX) enzymes, thereby reducing the production of prostaglandins and other inflammatory mediators, and by suppressing inflammatory cytokines and chemokines, salicylic acid helps to regulate the immune response in the skin.

Antimicrobial Activity

Salicylic acid exhibits antimicrobial properties against acne-causing bacteria, such as Propionibacterium acnes, by disrupting bacterial cell membranes and inhibiting bacterial proliferation.

Regulation of Sebum Production

Salicylic acid regulates sebum production by modulating the activity of sebaceous gland, and by promoting exfoliation and preventing the accumulation of dead skin cells and debris within pores, salicylic acid minimizes the risk of pore clogging.

Enhanced Cell Turnover

Salicylic acid accelerates the natural process of epidermal cell turnover, promoting the shedding of old, damaged skin cells and revealing smoother, more radiant skin underneath, and Its exfoliative and anti-inflammatory properties also aid in the fading of hyperpigmentation.

Effects

Exfoliation and Cell Renewal

  1. Removal of Dead Skin Cells: Salicylic acid penetrates the pores and exfoliates the surface of the skin, effectively removing dead skin cells, dirt, and excess oil.
  2. Promotion of Cell Turnover: By accelerating the shedding of dead skin cells and stimulating the renewal of skin cells, salicylic acid helps to maintain a smoother and more radiant complexion.

Treatment of Acne and Blemishes

  1. Unclogging Pores: Salicylic acid penetrates deep into the pores, dissolving sebum and debris, thereby preventing and treating acne by unclogging pores.
  2. Reduction of Inflammation: Its anti-inflammatory properties help to reduce redness, swelling, and irritation associated with acne breakouts, promoting faster healing.

Regulation of Sebum Production

  1. Oil Control: Salicylic acid regulates sebum production by balancing the activity of the sebaceous glands, making it effective in controlling excess oiliness and shine on the skin.
  2. Prevention of Pore Congestion: By minimizing oil buildup and preventing pore congestion, salicylic acid reduces the likelihood of blackheads, whiteheads, and other types of acne.

Improvement of Skin Texture and Tone

  1. Refinement of Skin Texture: Regular use of salicylic acid smooths rough skin texture, diminishing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven skin texture.
  2. Brightening Effect: Salicylic acid helps to fade dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and post-inflammatory marks, resulting in a more even and luminous skin tone.

Treatment of Skin Conditions

  1. Rosacea and Redness: Salicylic acid's anti-inflammatory properties can help to alleviate redness and inflammation associated with rosacea and other inflammatory skin conditions.
  2. Keratosis Pilaris: Salicylic acid can be beneficial in managing keratosis pilaris, a common skin condition characterized by rough, bumpy skin, by exfoliating and smoothing the affected areas.

Side Effects

Dryness and Irritation

  1. Dry Skin: Salicylic acid can have a drying effect on the skin, especially at higher concentrations or when used too frequently.
  2. Irritation: Some individuals may experience redness, itching, or stinging sensations upon application, particularly if they have sensitive skin or are using other potentially irritating skincare products concurrently.

Peeling and Flaking

In some cases, salicylic acid may lead to excessive exfoliation, causing the skin to peel or flake. This is more likely to occur with higher concentrations or prolonged use.

Photosensitivity

Salicylic acid can make the skin more sensitive to sunlight, increasing the risk of sunburn and other forms of sun damage. It is important to use sunscreen daily and limit sun exposure while using salicylic acid-containing products.

Some individuals may develop allergic contact dermatitis in response to salicylic acid, characterized by redness, swelling, itching, and/or a rash at the site of application. This reaction is more common in individuals with a known sensitivity to aspirin or other salicylates.

Synergy

Niacinamide

  • Acne Treatment: Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) complements salicylic acid's anti-inflammatory properties, helping to soothe redness and irritation associated with acne breakouts.
  • Oil Control: Niacinamide regulates sebum production, working synergistically with salicylic acid to reduce excess oiliness and shine on the skin's surface.

Related:Niacinamide

Glycolic Acid

  • Exfoliation: Glycolic acid, an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), enhances salicylic acid's exfoliating effects by promoting the shedding of dead skin cells and unclogging pores, resulting in smoother and clearer skin.
  • Texture Refinement: Together, salicylic acid and glycolic acid improve skin texture and tone, reducing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation.

Related:What is Glycolic Acid. Why is it Must-Have Now?

Hyaluronic Acid

  • Hydration: Hyaluronic acid attracts and retains moisture in the skin, counteracting salicylic acid's potential drying effects and maintaining optimal hydration levels.
  • Barrier Support: Hyaluronic acid reinforces the skin's natural barrier function, enhancing its resilience and protecting against external aggressors, while salicylic acid addresses specific skin concerns.

Related:Why Your Hyaluronic Acid May Not Work, According To Its Renowned Effects.

Retinol

  • Acne and Aging: Retinol, a form of vitamin A, accelerates cellular turnover and promotes collagen synthesis, complementing salicylic acid's exfoliating and anti-acne properties to address both acne and signs of aging.
  • Skin Renewal: Together, salicylic acid and retinol stimulate skin renewal, resulting in smoother, firmer, and more youthful-looking skin with continued use.

Related:What is Retinol?

Licorice Extract

  • Hyperpigmentation: Licorice extract contains compounds such as glabridin, which inhibit melanin production and help fade dark spots and hyperpigmentation when combined with salicylic acid, enhancing overall skin clarity and brightness.
  • Anti-Inflammatory: Licorice extract also possesses anti-inflammatory properties, soothing skin irritation and redness often associated with acne and other inflammatory skin conditions when used alongside salicylic acid.

Related:Licorice Extract

Tea Tree Oil

  • Antimicrobial Action: Tea tree oil has natural antimicrobial properties that synergize with salicylic acid's acne-fighting abilities, targeting acne-causing bacteria and reducing the occurrence of breakouts.
  • Calming Effects: Tea tree oil's soothing properties help alleviate inflammation and discomfort associated with acne, enhancing the overall efficacy of salicylic acid in treating acne-prone skin.

Related:Is Tea Tree Oil still Valid?

Vitamin C

  • Brightening: Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) brightens the skin and fades hyperpigmentation, complementing salicylic acid's exfoliating properties to reveal a more even and radiant complexion.
  • Antioxidant Protection: Vitamin C provides antioxidant protection against free radicals and environmental damage, supporting the skin's health and resilience while salicylic acid addresses specific skin concerns.

Related:I was wrong about Vitaminc C on Skins. How to glow up your skin with Vitamin C.

Ceramides

Ceramides strengthen the skin's natural barrier, enhancing its ability to retain moisture and protect against external aggressors, which complements salicylic acid's exfoliating and acne-fighting properties without compromising the skin's integrity.

Related:Ceramides

Optimal pH Level

The optimal pH level for salicylic acid to work effectively on the skin is typically between pH 3 and pH 4.

Consideratioin

Formulations with a pH higher than 4 may still provide some benefits, but they may not be as effective at exfoliating the skin or treating acne and other concerns. Conversely, formulations with a pH significantly lower than 3 may be too acidic and could potentially cause irritation.

Avoid With

Benzoyl Peroxide

While both salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide are effective acne-fighting ingredients, using them together may increase the risk of skin irritation and dryness. Benzoyl peroxide can oxidize salicylic acid, reducing its efficacy and potentially causing skin sensitivity.

Related:Benzoyl Peroxide

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

AHAs, such as glycolic acid and lactic acid, also have exfoliating properties like salicylic acid. Using them together may lead to over-exfoliation and increased risk of irritation, especially for individuals with sensitive skin.

Related:Learn More About AHAs, and BHAs.

Retinoids (Retinol, Tretinoin, Adapalene)

Even though it is effective in moderation with salicylic acid, retinoids are potent exfoliants and can increase skin sensitivity. Combining them with salicylic acid may lead to excessive dryness, irritation, and compromised skin barrier function.

Sulfur

Sulfur is another common ingredient used in acne treatments due to its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. Combining sulfur with salicylic acid may increase the risk of skin dryness and irritation.

Strong Physical Exfoliants

Strong physical exfoliants, such as scrubs with large abrasive particles or harsh cleansing brushes, can cause micro-tears in the skin when used with salicylic acid, leading to increased sensitivity and irritation.

Alcohol-Based Products

Alcohol-based products, especially those containing high concentrations of denatured alcohol, can further dry out and irritate the skin when combined with salicylic acid, leading to increased sensitivity and potential barrier damage.

High-pH Products

Products with high pH levels can disrupt the skin's natural acid mantle and compromise the efficacy of salicylic acid, which works best at slightly acidic pH levels.

Tips

Start Slowly

Begin by using salicylic acid products with lower concentrations (typically 0.5% to 2%) and gradually increase frequency or concentration as tolerated. This allows your skin to acclimate to the ingredient and reduces the risk of irritation.

Use Salicylic Acid Products at the Right pH

Look for salicylic acid products with a pH between 3 and 4, as this range optimizes the efficacy of salicylic acid for exfoliation and acne treatment. Products with higher pH levels may be less effective.

Use Sunscreen Daily

Salicylic acid can increase the skin's sensitivity to sunlight, so it's essential to use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher daily, even on cloudy days. Reapply sunscreen every two hours when exposed to direct sunlight.

Related:Revealing The Power of Sunscreen

Moisturize

Salicylic acid can be drying, especially for individuals with dry or sensitive skin. To counteract dryness, follow up with a moisturizer to keep the skin hydrated and comfortable.

Avoid Mixing with Harsh Ingredients

Avoid combining salicylic acid with other potentially irritating or drying ingredients, such as benzoyl peroxide, strong physical exfoliants, or alcohol-based products, to minimize the risk of irritation and sensitization.

For Each Skin Type

Oily Skin

  • Concerns: Excess oil production, enlarged pores, acne, and blemishes.
  • Salicylic Acid Products: Oil-free cleansers, toners, serums, spot treatments, and moisturizers containing salicylic acid can help regulate oil production, unclog pores, and reduce acne breakouts without further drying out the skin.
  • Recommended Concentration: 1% to 2% salicylic acid.

Combination Skin

  • Concerns: Combination skin can be oily in the T-zone (forehead, nose, and chin) and normal to dry on the cheeks.
  • Salicylic Acid Products: Use gentle cleansers or toners with salicylic acid to target oily areas and prevent breakouts, while opting for hydrating or soothing formulations for drier areas of the face.
  • Recommended Concentration: 0.5% to 1% salicylic acid.

Acne-Prone Skin

  • Concerns: Acne, blackheads, whiteheads, and occasional breakouts.
  • Salicylic Acid Products: Incorporate salicylic acid into your skincare routine with cleansers, spot treatments, or leave-on products to exfoliate the skin, unclog pores, and reduce acne lesions. Avoid heavy or occlusive formulations that may exacerbate acne.
  • Recommended Concentration: 1% to 2% salicylic acid.

Normal Skin

  • Concerns: Generally balanced skin with occasional breakouts or minor imperfections.
  • Salicylic Acid Products: Use salicylic acid-based products as needed to address occasional breakouts or to maintain clear, smooth skin. Choose lightweight formulations that won't weigh down the skin or cause excess dryness.
  • Recommended Concentration: 0.5% to 1% salicylic acid.

Dry or Sensitive Skin

  • Concerns: Dryness, flakiness, sensitivity, and irritation.
  • Salicylic Acid Products: Opt for gentle formulations with lower concentrations of salicylic acid to minimize irritation and dryness. Consider using leave-on products like serums or moisturizers to deliver the benefits of salicylic acid without harshness.
  • Recommended Concentration: 0.5% salicylic acid or less.

Aging Skin

  • Concerns: Fine lines, wrinkles, uneven texture, and occasional breakouts.
  • Salicylic Acid Products: Incorporate salicylic acid into your anti-aging skincare routine to exfoliate dead skin cells, promote cell turnover, and improve skin texture. Look for formulations that combine salicylic acid with hydrating and anti-aging ingredients.
  • Recommended Concentration: 0.5% to 1% salicylic acid.

Alternatives

Alternative Ingredient Key Properties
Glycolic Acid - Alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) - Exfoliates skin by loosening bonds between dead skin cells
- Improves skin texture, reduces fine lines and wrinkles, and enhances skin radiance
Lactic Acid - Alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) - Mild exfoliant that helps improve skin texture and hydration
- Suitable for sensitive skin and can help address hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone
Azelaic Acid - Dicarboxylic acid - Antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties
- Treats acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation, and helps improve overall skin tone
Benzoyl Peroxide - Anti-bacterial agent - Kills acne-causing bacteria and reduces inflammation
- Effective in treating acne and preventing future breakouts
Retinoids (Retinol, Tretinoin) - Derivatives of vitamin A - Stimulate cell turnover and collagen production
- Improve skin texture, reduce acne, minimize fine lines and wrinkles, and even out skin tone
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) - Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties - Helps strengthen the skin barrier
- Reduces redness, regulates oil production, and improves uneven skin tone
Hyaluronic Acid - Humectant - Attracts and retains moisture in the skin
- Hydrates and plumps the skin, improves skin texture, and helps reduce the appearance of wrinkles

Vegan Status

Salicylic acid is vegan-friendly. It can be naturally derived from the bark of willow trees. Also, Many salicylic acid products available in the market are synthetically produced in laboratories. The synthetic production of salicylic acid does not involve animal-derived ingredients.

What It Does in Products

Cleansers

Cleansers containing salicylic acid are suitable for daily use and are effective for maintaining clear, blemish-free skin. They provide gentle exfoliation without the need for additional steps in the skincare routine.

Toners

Toners containing salicylic acid provide targeted treatment for acne-prone or congested areas of the skin. They can help minimize the appearance of pores and promote a smoother, more even complexion.

Related:Do You Need A Toner?

Serums

Serums containing salicylic acid are potent treatments for acne, blackheads, and blemishes. They can be used as a targeted spot treatment or applied to larger areas of the face to address multiple concerns.

Spot Treatments

Spot treatments containing salicylic acid offer fast-acting relief for active breakouts and can help prevent the formation of new blemishes. They provide targeted treatment without over-drying or irritating the surrounding skin.

Moisturizers

Moisturizers containing salicylic acid are ideal for individuals with acne-prone or combination skin types who require hydration without clogging pores. They provide all-day comfort while treating and preventing breakouts.

Related:Choosing Moisturizers For Your Glowing Skin

Incorporating to Your Routine

Morning Routine

  1. Cleanse:
    • Start your morning routine by cleansing your face with a gentle cleanser suited to your skin type. Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water and pat dry.
  2. Tone (Optional):
    • If you use a toner, apply it after cleansing to further remove impurities and balance the skin's pH levels. Look for a salicylic acid toner to target acne-prone areas.
  3. Apply Salicylic Acid Treatment:
    • After toning (if applicable), apply a salicylic acid serum or spot treatment to areas of concern, such as acne-prone areas or areas with blackheads and whiteheads.
  4. Moisturize:
    • Follow up with a lightweight, oil-free moisturizer to hydrate and protect the skin. Choose a moisturizer with SPF if you'll be exposed to sunlight during the day.
  5. Sunscreen:
    • Finish your morning routine by applying a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher. Salicylic acid can increase sun sensitivity, so sunscreen is essential to protect your skin from UV damage.

Night Routine

  1. Double Cleanse:
    • Begin your nighttime routine with a double cleanse to remove makeup, sunscreen, and impurities accumulated throughout the day. Start with an oil-based cleanser followed by a water-based cleanser.
  2. Exfoliate (Optional):
    • If you're using a leave-on exfoliant containing salicylic acid, apply it after cleansing and toning (if applicable). Use it as directed, focusing on acne-prone areas or areas with rough texture.
  3. Apply Treatment Products:
    • Follow up with any treatment products in your nighttime routine, such as serums or targeted treatments for specific skin concerns like fine lines, hyperpigmentation, or hydration.
  4. Moisturize:
    • Apply a nourishing moisturizer to lock in moisture and promote overnight skin repair and renewal. Choose a moisturizer suited to your skin type and concerns.
  5. Eye Cream (Optional):
    • If you use an eye cream, gently pat it around the delicate eye area to hydrate and address concerns like dark circles, puffiness, or fine lines.
  6. Sleep Mask or Overnight Treatment (Optional):
    • Finish your nighttime routine with a sleep mask or overnight treatment containing salicylic acid or other active ingredients to further enhance skin renewal and address specific concerns.

Related:Try These 5 Night Routine Tips For Your Glowing Skin.

Misconceptions

Salicylic Acid Causes Skin Peeling

It typically works more gently than physical exfoliants like scrubs. Salicylic acid helps to dissolve the bonds between dead skin cells. It may cause mild flaking or peeling in some individuals, especially when first starting to use it, but severe peeling is uncommon with salicylic acid when used properly.

Salicylic Acid Thins the Skin

Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that exfoliates the skin by penetrating into the pores and dissolving sebum and other substances that clog them. It does not thin the skin in the same way that certain other exfoliants.

Salicylic Acid Is Only Effective for Acne-Prone Skin.

While salicylic acid is indeed effective for treating acne and controlling oil production, it offers benefits beyond just acne-prone skin. Salicylic acid can help improve the appearance of pores, reduce blackheads and whiteheads, and enhance overall skin texture.

Salicylic Acid Is Not Safe for Sensitive Skin

While individuals with sensitive skin should approach salicylic acid with caution and may need to start with lower concentrations or less frequent use, salicylic acid can be safe and effective for sensitive skin when used properly.

Salicylic Acid Can Remove Scars or Hyperpigmentation.

Salicylic Acid is not a treatment for scars or deep pigmentation concerns. Other ingredients, such as retinoids, vitamin C, or hydroquinone, may be more effective for addressing scars and hyperpigmentation even though it may help improve the appearance of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) caused by acne

People Also Ask About Salicylic Acid

A: Yes, the efficacy of salicylic acid is pH-dependent. Salicylic acid works best in formulations with a pH between 3 and 4, which ensures it remains in its acid form to effectively penetrate the skin and perform its exfoliating action. Products outside this pH range may not provide the same level of effectiveness in treating acne or exfoliating the skin.

A: While salicylic acid is generally safe for all skin tones, overuse or improper use can lead to irritation and potentially cause post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), especially in darker skin tones.

A: Salicylic acid should be used with caution around the eyes, as the skin in this area is particularly thin and sensitive. Avoid applying salicylic acid to the eyelids or directly under the eyes to prevent irritation.

A: Salicylic acid can be used in conjunction with other acne treatments, such as benzoyl peroxide or topical antibiotics, but it's important to space out their application to prevent excessive skin dryness and irritation. For example, you might use salicylic acid in the morning and benzoyl peroxide or antibiotics in the evening. Always follow the advice of a dermatologist to create an effective and safe routine.

A: Salicylic acid does not lose its potency in sunlight, making it suitable for use in daytime skincare routines. However, because it can make the skin more sensitive to the sun due to its exfoliating action, it's crucial to apply sunscreen daily to protect the skin from UV damage.

A: Yes, salicylic acid can be beneficial for the scalp, particularly in treating dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, and scalp acne.

A: Salicylic acid can be used safely as part of a long-term skincare routine, provided it does not cause irritation or dryness for your skin type.

(!) We are not affiliated with the brand listed below. We measure carefully to find the best ones.

Budget-friendly
Cleanser for Oily Skin
CeraVe SA Renewing Cleanser ($13)

A gentle cleanser that effectively removes oil, dirt, and makeup without disrupting the skin's natural barrier. Ideal for those seeking effective, no-frills skincare.

Serum For Acne-Prone Skin
Spot Treatments for Targeted Acne Care ($6.70)

Fast-acting and designed to reduce the sizes of pimples, this spot treatment is perfect for emergency acne care without overspending.

Toner For Combination Skin
COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid ($25)

An exfoliant that goes beyond blackhead care, balancing oil-moisture levels and refining skin texture, ideal for combination skin types.

High-quality
Exfoliant For Sensitive Skin
Paula's Choice CALM 1% BHA Exfoliant ($29.75)

Specifically formulated for sensitive skin, this gentle exfoliant soothes redness while unclogging pores, blending the efficacy of salicylic acid with calming ingredients.

Moisturizer For Dry, Acne-Prone Skin
Dr. Jart+ Teatreement Moisturizer ($35)

A K-beauty innovation, this moisturizer targets acne while balancing the skin's hydration levels, a rare find for those with dry skin but still battling breakouts.

Cleanser For Mature Skin
Murad Age Reform AHA/BHA Exfoliating Cleanser ($46)

Combining salicylic acid with AHAs, this cleanser offers a dual-action approach to exfoliation, promoting cell turnover and revealing a brighter, smoother complexion suitable for mature skin types.

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