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A woman in yellow tank top lying on bed. Image from Unsplash
A woman in yellow tank top lying on bed. Image from Unsplash
Facts About DYI Skincare Ingredients
Ingredients Considerable
Hyaluronic Acid Powerful humectant, hydrates and plumps skin, reduces appearance of fine lines.
Vitamin C Antioxidant protection, brightens skin, reduces pigmentation, stimulates collagen production.
Retinol Stimulates cell turnover, reduces signs of aging, clears acne.
Niacinamide Reduces inflammation, minimizes pore appearance, regulates oil production, strengthens skin barrier.
Vitamin E (Tocopherol) Moisturizes, heals, offers antioxidant protection, stabilizes vitamin C formulations.
Squalane Mimics skin's natural oils, lightweight moisturizer, non-comedogenic.
Cica (Centella Asiatica) Soothes and repairs skin, reduces redness and irritation.
Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Moisturizes, soothes, heals, improves skin barrier function.
Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) Exfoliates, clears pores, reduces inflammation, particularly salicylic acid for acne-prone skin.
Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) Exfoliates, brightens skin, improves texture, includes glycolic, lactic, and mandelic acids.
Carrier Oils Jojoba oil, sweet almond oil, grapeseed oil, and coconut oil.
Use These For
Serums Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Squalane, Cica (Centella Asiatica), Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5), Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), Hyaluronic Acid (HA)
Toners Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid), Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA), Cica
Exfoliants Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA), Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA)
Creams Retinol, Squalane, Vitamin E (Tocopherol), Cica, Camomile Extract
Lotions Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5), Ceramides
After-sun care Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5)
Lip balms Essential Oils, Shea Butter
For Bases
Carrier Oils Jojoba oil, sweet almond oil, grapeseed oil, and coconut oil for moisturizers, serums, and cleansing oils.
Butters Shea butter, cocoa butter, and mango butter for thick creams, body butters, and balms
Waxes Beeswax and candelilla wax (a vegan alternative) to thicken formulations.
Aloe Vera Gel Soothing gels
Hydrosols (Floral Waters) Rose water, lavender water, and chamomile water. Toners, facial mists, and the water phase in emulsions.
Glycerin A humectant in lotions, creams, and serums.
Distilled Water The primary base for many water-based formulations.
Natural Clays For masks and cleansers
Emulsifiers Lecithin, stearic acid, and emulsifying wax to blend oil.
Solubilizers Polysorbate 20, decyl glucoside for oil-soluble ingredients.
Alcohol (High-Proof) Preservative and solvent in formulations like perfumes.

Your Needs in DYI Skincare Products

Creating DIY skincare products can be a rewarding experience, allowing you to tailor formulations to your specific skin concerns. However, it's crucial to approach DIY skincare with caution, especially when working with active ingredients like niacinamide, retinol, and hyaluronic acid.

What Can Go Wrong?

Engaging in DIY skincare requires a cautious approach, emphasizing safety, proper formulation, and hygiene practices. Incorrect formulations, contaminations, or even the issues with the ingredient itself are common.

Combine with aloe vera gel or rose water for a soothing, anti-inflammatory effect. Niacinamide works well in water-based solutions and can be easily incorporated into serums or toners. Generally safe at 2-5%. Higher concentrations can be used, but start lower to assess skin tolerance.

Related:Niacinamide

Reocmmended Use With Retinol

Add a tint of light carrier oils like #!{squalane] or Jojoba Oil for a moisturizing night serum. retinol can be drying, so combining it with a nourishing oil can help mitigate irritation. Start with a low concentration (0.03-0.1%) if you're incorporating pure retinol into a DIY formulation to avoid irritation.

Related:What is Retinol?

Start with a 10-15% concentration of L-Ascorbic Acid for efficacy, adjusting pH to around 3.5 for skin compatibility. A simple solution of distilled water and glycerin can serve as a base for a Vitamin C serum.

Related:I was wrong about Vitaminc C on Skins. How to glow up your skin with Vitamin C.

Ingredients For Bases

  1. Carrier Oils Jojoba Oil, sweet almond oil, grapeseed oil, and Coconut oil for moisturizers, serums, and cleansing oils.
  2. Butters shea butter, cocoa butter, and mango butter for thick creams, body butters, and balms.
  3. Waxes Beeswax and candelilla wax to thicken formulations and create protective barriers in products like lip balms, salves, and heavy-duty moisturizers.
  4. Aloe Vera Gel Soothing gels, lightweight moisturizers, or bases for hydrating serums. Aloe Vera is hydrating and has soothing properties, making it suitable for sensitive or irritated skin.
  5. Hydrosols (Floral Waters) Rose water, lavender water, and chamomile water for toners, facial mists, and the water phase in emulsions. They provide mild therapeutic properties depending on the plant source.
  6. Glycerin A humectant in lotions, creams, and serums. glycerin attracts moisture to the skin, making it a staple in hydrating products.
  7. Distilled Water The primary base for many water-based formulations like toners, serums, and lotions. It's important to use distilled water to avoid contaminants present in tap water.
  8. Natural Clays Bentonite clay, kaolin clay, and French green clay for masks and cleansers

Cautions To Be Minded

  1. Incorrect Formulations Without proper knowledge, DIY formulations can lead to incorrect pH levels, concentrations, or ingredient combinations, reducing effectiveness or causing skin irritation. Advised to use reliable sources for recipes, understand ingredient interactions, and invest in pH testing strips.
  2. Contamination and Preservation Homemade products, especially those containing water, are prone to bacterial, fungal, and microbial contamination without proper preservatives, posing health risks.
  3. Allergic Reactions Natural doesn't always mean safe; many natural ingredients can cause allergic reactions or sensitivities. Perform patch tests for each new product or ingredient on a small skin area before full application.
  4. Unstable Active Ingredients Active ingredients like Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) are unstable and can quickly degrade when exposed to air and light or if improperly formulated, making them ineffective or even harmful.
  5. Excessive Exfoliation DIY scrubs or peels might be too abrasive or have an incorrect acid concentration, leading to over-exfoliation, skin barrier damage, and increased sensitivity.
  6. Sun Sensitivity Certain ingredients, especially citrus juices or essential oils, can increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun, leading to burns or pigmentation.
  7. Lack of Efficacy Some DIY recipes may not provide the desired effects or could be less effective than commercial products due to concentration levels or ingredient quality.

Finishing Up

When creating DIY skincare, understanding the properties and functions of these base ingredients is crucial for successful formulations. Remember, the addition of water to any product introduces the risk of bacterial growth, so preservatives are necessary for safety.

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Note About DYI Skincare Ingredients

For those new to DIY skincare or working with potent actives, consider starting with pre-made bases or serums to which you can add specific ingredients, reducing the risk of irritation or product instability.

People Also Ask About DYI Skincare Ingredients

A: Yes, food-grade ingredients can be used in DIY skincare, and often are, due to their natural and pure nature. However, it's important to remember that even food-grade ingredients can cause skin irritations or reactions for some individuals, and they may expire quickly.

A: The shelf life of DIY skincare products can vary widely depending on the ingredients used and whether you include a preservative. As a general rule, water-based products without preservatives should be used within a week and stored in the refrigerator. Products made solely with oils and butters can last several months if stored properly.

A: While essential oils can provide therapeutic properties to skincare formulations, they must be used cautiously. Essential oils are potent and can cause skin irritation or allergic reactions if not properly diluted. The general guideline is to keep essential oil concentrations below 2% of the total formula and to always do a patch test.

A: Yes, using distilled water is recommended for DIY skincare products to avoid introducing contaminants and bacteria that can be found in tap water.

A: Opt for organic and sustainably sourced ingredients, use recyclable or reusable containers, and minimize waste by making small batches.

A: Yes, certain active ingredients can interact negatively or decrease each other's efficacy. For example, retinol (vitamin A) and vitamin C can be unstable together, and combining high concentrations of AHAs/BHAs with retinol can increase skin irritation.

A: The pH of skincare products can be adjusted with acidic ingredients (like citric acid to lower pH) or basic ingredients (like baking soda to raise pH). pH strips can be used to test the product's pH. Aim for a skin-friendly pH between 4.5 and 5.5 for most products.

A: While you can find recipes for DIY sunscreens, creating an effective, evenly distributed, and reliably protective sunscreen is challenging and not recommended. Commercial sunscreens undergo extensive testing to ensure they provide the advertised level of protection. It's best to rely on commercially available sunscreens for safety.

A: While home creators lack the resources for clinical testing, you can monitor your skin's response over time to gauge effectiveness. Keep a skincare diary, noting any changes in texture, appearance, and overall skin health. If you are worrying about its efficacy, consider using pre-formulated DYI skincare products.

A: Yes, certain ingredients can react with one another, potentially altering the efficacy of your product or even creating harmful compounds. For instance, mixing vitamin C (ascorbic acid) with certain metals in tap water can create potentially harmful byproducts.

A: Extending shelf life involves careful formulation, including the use of appropriate preservatives, antioxidants (to prevent oils from going rancid), and sterile manufacturing processes. Water-based products are particularly prone to spoilage and require effective preservation to extend their usability.

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