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A cosmetic bottle from The Ordinary, and a Derma Roller device. Image from Unsplash
A cosmetic bottle from The Ordinary, and a Derma Roller device. Image from Unsplash
Facts About Derma Rolling
Shorter Needles (0.25mm to 0.5mm)
Home use 0.25mm to 0.5mm for safety and minimal irritation.
Usage Frequency Once a week
Benefit Topical products may go deep inside after leaving pores
Recommended under guidnace Not required.
Sunscreen Required, especially when using cosmetics such as Retinol, or Salicylic Acid.
Longer Needles : 0.5mm+
Home use Not recommended
Usage Frequency Once a month
Benefit Skin rejuvenation, and collagen & elastin stimulation
Recommended under guidnace Required
Sunscreen Required
Derma Rolling
Effectiveness Rank : 5
Good With Vitamin C, Retinol, Vitamin E, and all trendy topical ingredients.
Recommended Length for Starters 0.15mm
Effective For Scars, Acnes, Large pores, Wrinkles. Hyperpigmentation

What is Micro Needling?

Derma rolling, also known as micro-needling, is a cosmetic procedure that involves using a device called a derma roller. This device is a small, handheld roller covered in hundreds of tiny needles.

Derma Rolling Purpose on Skin

The primary purpose of derma rolling is to create micro-injuries on the skin's surface, which stimulates the body's natural wound healing processes, leading to increased collagen and elastin production.

Benefits of Derma Rolling

  1. Skin Rejuvenation Derma rolling can help improve the appearance of aging skin, reducing the appearance of wrinkles, fine lines, and large pores. It promotes skin regeneration, leading to a smoother, more youthful complexion.
  2. Scar Reduction It is often used to treat different types of scars, including acne scars and scars from injuries or surgeries. By promoting collagen production, it can help in the gradual healing and fading of scar tissue.
  3. Hyperpigmentation Derma rolling can improve the appearance of hyperpigmentation and sun spots by facilitating the turnover of the skin cells, leading to more even skin tone.
  4. Stretch Marks Similar to its effects on scars, derma rolling can also reduce the appearance of stretch marks. The increased collagen and elastin can help to repair and fade stretch marks over time.
  5. Improving Product Absorption By creating tiny channels in the skin, derma rolling can enhance the absorption and efficacy of topical skin care products, making them more effective.

Why Do I Need Derma Rolling?

  1. Collagen Induction Therapy Derma rolling stimulates collagen production, known as collagen induction therapy. This process can help in reducing the signs of aging such as wrinkles, fine lines, and sagging skin, leading to a firmer, more youthful skin appearance.
  2. Scar Treatment and Reduction If you have acne scars, surgical scars, or scars from injuries, derma rolling can help reduce their appearance. The process encourages the skin to heal itself, potentially making scars less noticeable over time.
  3. Improvement of Skin Texture and Tone Derma rolling can improve overall skin texture and tone. It is effective in treating uneven skin tone, reducing hyperpigmentation, sunspots, and melasma by promoting the turnover of skin cells.
  4. Enhanced Absorption of Skincare Products The micro-channels created by derma rolling increase the absorption of skincare products, making them more effective. This can be particularly beneficial if you are using products for anti-aging, hydration, or skin brightening.
  5. Minimizing Pore Size Regular use of a derma roller can help in reducing the size of enlarged pores by stimulating collagen production around the pores, making them appear smaller and improving skin texture.
  6. Stretch Mark Reduction Similar to its effects on scars, derma rolling can also help in reducing the appearance of stretch marks. The process helps to regenerate skin tissue, making stretch marks less visible over time.
  7. Acne Treatment and Prevention While derma rolling is not recommended on active acne (as it can spread bacteria), it can help in preventing acne scars and treating existing ones by promoting skin healing and collagen production.

Is Derma Rolling Safe?

Derma rolling, also known as micro-needling, is generally considered safe when performed correctly and with the appropriate precautions. However, like any skincare treatment, it carries potential risks and side effects, especially when not done properly. Also, for home use, derma rollers with shorter needles (up to 0.3 mm) are recommended, as they are less likely to cause injury and infection.

  1. Hyaluronic Acid Hyaluronic acid is highly recommended for use after derma rolling due to its intense hydrating properties. It helps to moisturize the skin, reducing the chance of irritation and promoting healing. Hyaluronic acid can attract and retain moisture in the skin, facilitating recovery and enhancing the plumping effect for a smoother appearance.
  2. Peptide Serums Peptides are short chains of amino acids that can signal the skin to produce collagen and elastin, making them ideal for use with derma rolling. Peptide serums can help in repairing the skin, reducing wrinkles, and improving skin texture and firmness.
  3. Growth Factors Growth factor serums can support the skin's natural healing process and stimulate cellular renewal and collagen production. These serums can be beneficial in enhancing the rejuvenating effects of derma rolling, particularly in anti-aging treatments.
  4. Antioxidants Products containing antioxidants like vitamin C, vitamin E, and ferulic acid can help protect the skin from free radical damage and support collagen synthesis. Vitamin C is particularly valued for its ability to brighten the skin and even out skin tone, but it should be used with caution and introduced gradually to avoid irritation.
  5. Stem Cell Serums Stem cell serums, derived from plants or human cells, are believed to promote skin cell regeneration and improve the appearance of scars and wrinkles. They can be used post-derma rolling to enhance skin repair and rejuvenation.
  6. Ceramides Ceramides help to restore the skin's barrier function, keeping moisture in and irritants out. Using products with ceramides after derma rolling can help to soothe and moisturize the skin, preventing dryness and irritation.

How to Minimize Redness on Skin After Derma Rolling

  1. Use a Cooling Gel or Mask Immediately after derma rolling, apply a cooling gel or mask that contains aloe vera or other soothing ingredients. These products can help to reduce inflammation and provide a calming effect on the skin.
  2. Apply Hyaluronic Acid Hyaluronic acid is excellent for hydrating the skin without causing irritation. Its soothing properties can help reduce redness and promote healing. Look for serums that are purely hydrating without added active ingredients that might irritate the skin.
  3. Avoid Harsh Skincare Products For at least 24-48 hours after treatment, avoid using harsh skincare products that contain retinoids, vitamin C, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), or any exfoliating agents, as these can exacerbate redness and irritation.
  4. Keep the Skin Moisturized Maintain a high level of hydration by applying a gentle, fragrance-free moisturizer. Keeping the skin hydrated can help to reduce redness and support the skin's natural barrier function.
  5. Avoid Sun Exposure After derma rolling, your skin is more sensitive to sunlight, which can increase redness and the risk of sunburn. Avoid direct sun exposure and apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher when going outside, even on cloudy days.
  6. Cold Compresses Applying a cold compress or ice pack wrapped in a clean cloth to the treated area can help reduce swelling and redness. Do not apply ice directly to the skin, and limit each cold compress session to a few minutes to avoid irritation.
  7. Stay Hydrated Drinking plenty of water helps to hydrate the skin from the inside out, promoting healing and reducing redness.
  8. Use Gentle Skin Care Switch to a gentle skin care routine that avoids mechanical irritation. Use soft, patting motions instead of rubbing when applying products.
  9. Avoid Makeup Avoid applying makeup for at least 24 hours after derma rolling to prevent clogging of the pores and to minimize the risk of infection and irritation.
  10. Patience and Care Redness after derma rolling is normal and usually subsides within a few days. If you experience prolonged redness or other signs of irritation, consult with a dermatologist or skincare professional.

How to Find the Right Derma Roller.

  1. Needle Length The length of the needles on a derma roller can range from 0.1 mm to 3 mm. The appropriate length depends on the treatment area and the skin concern being addressed. For home use, it's generally recommended to use shorter needles (up to 0.5 mm) to avoid damage and reduce the risk of infection. Longer needles (1 mm and above) are typically used by professionals for more in-depth treatments.
  2. Needle Quality High-quality needles are usually made of stainless steel or titanium, with titanium being more durable and less prone to bending. Ensure the needles are fine and sharp to prevent tearing or dragging the skin, which can lead to injury.
  3. Needle Density The number of needles can affect the treatment's efficiency and comfort. A higher density of needles can provide a more uniform and less painful treatment but may require a bit more skill to use evenly.
  4. Sterilization and Hygiene Choose a derma roller that is easy to clean and sterilize. Some rollers come with cleaning solutions or instructions for proper sterilization. Ensuring the device is clean before each use is crucial to prevent infections.
  5. Build Quality and Design A good derma roller should have a sturdy construction and an ergonomic design that is easy to hold and use. This ensures that you can maintain consistent pressure and control during use.
  6. Brand Reputation and Reviews Research brands and read user reviews to assess the effectiveness and safety of their derma rollers. Reputable brands are more likely to offer high-quality, safe products.
  7. Replaceability of Parts Some derma rollers have replaceable heads, which can be cost-effective and hygienic. Consider whether you prefer a model with replaceable needles or a single-use roller.
  8. Skin Concerns and Goals Consider what you're trying to achieve with derma rolling. Different skin concerns (e.g., fine lines, deep scars, stretch marks) may require different needle lengths for optimal results.
  9. Professional Consultation If you're unsure about the best type of derma roller for your skin concerns, consult with a dermatologist or a skincare professional. They can provide personalized advice based on your skin type and goals.
  10. Price vs. Quality While price is an important consideration, it shouldn't be the sole factor in your decision. Investing in a slightly more expensive derma roller can be worthwhile if it means getting a safer and more effective product.

When to Use Derma Roller 0.3mm~0.5mm

Derma rollers with needle lengths ranging from 0.3mm to 0.5mm are considered safe for home use and are designed for more frequent but less invasive treatments compared to their longer-needled counterparts. These shorter needles penetrate only the very top layer of the skin, making them ideal for various skincare concerns and objectives without significant downtime.

Derma Roller 0.5mm~1mm

  1. Frequency of Use: For 0.5mm to 1mm needles, treatments should be spaced out more than those with shorter needles to allow the skin adequate time to heal. Typically, once every 3 to 4 weeks is recommended for these lengths.
  2. Skin Sensitivity: Be aware of your skin’s tolerance. Longer needles can cause more discomfort and require a longer recovery time. Always start with the least invasive option and observe how your skin responds.
  3. Hygiene and Care: Proper sterilization of the derma roller before and after each use is crucial to avoid infections. Also, ensure your skin is clean and free from inflammation or active acne to prevent spreading bacteria.
  4. Professional Guidance: Especially when using derma rollers with needles longer than 0.5mm, it's wise to seek advice from a dermatologist or qualified skincare professional. They can provide personalized recommendations based on your skin type and concerns.

Origin of Derma Rolling

The early development of micro-needling techniques began in the 1990s, with dermatologists exploring ways to treat scars and wrinkles more effectively. One of the pioneers in this field was Dr. Desmond Fernandes, a South African plastic surgeon who, in 1997, introduced a needling device to treat scars and wrinkles. He initially used a single needle to make punctures in the skin to induce collagen production, later developing a roller equipped with numerous fine needles to treat larger skin areas more efficiently.

Finishing Up

I've had so many tests with my co-workers, and friends about this amazing device. It's so effective that I am not sure where to begin with. It's good with all these amazing, trendy topical products like Vitamin C, Retinol, Cica, and Peptides – you name it! But keeping up with the guidelines is important.

People Also Ask About Derma Rolling

A: The sensation of derma rolling can vary depending on the needle length and individual pain tolerance. Needles shorter than 0.2mm typically cause minimal discomfort, often described as a prickling sensation.

A: For needles up to 0.5mm in length, derma rolling can be done once a week. For longer needles (0.5mm to 1mm), it's recommended to wait 3 to 4 weeks between sessions to allow the skin adequate time to heal. Always follow the guidance of a skincare professional for personalized advice.

A: No, derma rolling should not be used on active acne or inflamed skin, as it can spread bacteria and potentially worsen the condition.

A: Clean your derma roller by soaking it in 70-90% isopropyl alcohol for at least 5-10 minutes before and after each use.

A: Possible side effects include redness, irritation, dryness, and slight swelling, typically subsiding within a few days. Using improper technique or unsterilized equipment can lead to infections.

A: While derma rolling can significantly improve the appearance of acne scars and stretch marks by promoting collagen production, it may not completely remove them. Results vary depending on the severity of the scars, skin type, and consistency of treatment.

A: Results can vary, but with consistent use, improvements in skin texture and appearance may be noticeable within a few weeks to months. Significant results, especially for scars and wrinkles, may take several months of regular treatment.

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